Getting to Koh Phangan

There is no airport on Koh Phangan.  There are many travelers whose only time spent in Koh Samui is to wait for a Koh Phangan bound ferry at Big Buddha pier which is very close to the airport.  There are other points of embarkation to Koh Phangan including points along mainland Thailand but the easiest for most people is to fly into Samui Airport and book the ferry.

There are a couple different companies offering a trip from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan so it is important you know their schedules according to your itineraries.  I took a standard boat with what seemed to be a hundred or so fellow travelers on it.  It was the standard island transport boat which had indoor and outdoor seating, a small snack bar and bathroom facilities.  The trip from Samui to Phangan takes around 30 minutes unless you book a private speedboat which costs a ridiculous 7000+ baht.

Big Buddha Pier in Koh Samui (Big Buddha at the edge of Land in center of Photo)

Arriving in Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan Map (Click to Enlarge)

There are a few different piers on each island in which you can get from Samui to Phangan and vice versa.  I took the ferry from Big Buddha pier to Thong Sala pier which is in the center of Phangan.

Upon arrival you will no doubt see non-stop reminders of what Koh Phangan is famous for.  There are signs advertising the full moon and associated parties everywhere.  It is nothing like Koh Samui’s over development induced signage overload but you will notice them even in Thong Sala which is about an hour drive away from Haad Rin Nok beach on Southeastern Phangan which is the home of the infamous Full Moon Party.

After arriving on Thong Sala pier there are beautiful deserted beaches and fishing boats to the right and the town is directly in front.  There is nowhere to get lost as if you walk straight you will see numerous stores.

You have several transportation options after your arrival.  I saw many young travelers who I assume were on their way to Haad Rin the town/beach of the Full Moon Party getting in the back of ‘sawng teeo’ which are pick-up trucks converted to taxis with 2 benches lining their bed.

I had planned to rent a scooter/motorcycle and I rented one from the first vendor I saw.  She charged me 200 baht ($6USD per day) all I had to do is hand over my passport, pay her the 200 baht and I was off.  I initially planned to head back to Koh Samui because I still had all my stuff except for camera at my bungalow there.  I knew Koh Phangan had only a handful of main roads so I set off looking to explore the island but had no idea how long it would take or what was in store for me.

Thong Sala Beach (Directly to the right of Thong Sala Pier Upon Arrival)

Exploring Koh Phangan

I really didn’t have an itinerary on Koh Phangan.  I knew the island was small and I could just ride around on my scooter and explore various towns, mountains and of course beaches.  My exploration of Koh Phangan got off to a good start as I took a road to the northeast which lead me to the Chinese mountain temple on my way to one of the northern beaches.  The road seemed brand new and I was able to zip across the island.

Once I got to the north end of the island to the small fishing village there were a few small dirt roads which I decided not to take on my Honda scooter.  To this day I’m not sure whether the roads lead somewhere or just to someone’s house.  According to the maps there are non-paved roads that lead to the northern beaches but I figured there was a lot more to explore so I left and headed back south.

Once I drove back South I came to a familiar intersection.  Rather than going back to Thong Sala I decided to head northeast as I was pretty much just randomly driving.  The northeast road suddenly changed from paved highway to one of the worst dirt roads I’ve ever driven on.  The road was flat on probably 10% of it as it had grooves in it from a likely mixture of motorcycle traffic and rain water.

Beach on Northeast end of Koh Phangan

I almost crashed my scooter half a dozen times even though I was driving cautiously.  I consider myself lucky for not crashing, that’s how bad the roads were.  The dry loose dirt along with the multiple grooves in the road were a major problem going down the steep hills. Through the mountains on the way to the coast the roads would become paved for short stretches then back to the horrible dirt roads.

A great thing about traveling on Thailand’s islands is the small villages which often have restaurants.  I would usually stop and get food at these villages.  I stopped at one with a kid practicing Muay Thai in a full ring next to a dining area overlooking cliffs as well as one with a massage setup overlooking the beautiful beaches and landscapes of Koh Phangan (pictured below).   Like most of Thailand the people were extremely friendly but it seemed the people on Phangan were even friendlier!  I usually ordered fried rice as it’s pretty much impossible to get sick from eating it.

I finally got to the beach I had traveled the dangerous roads to get to.  The area I reached was an amazing looking crescent beach which was enveloped with dense forest.  There was another beach to the Northeast.   The area was very quiet and family/couple oriented so I decided I wanted to go to Haad Rin to spend the night.  I still had some light so I decided to brave the horrific roads in the darkening skies to get to an area with more options.

Get a Massage after Eating some of the Local Cuisine all over Phangan

Haad Rin Pier after Sunset in Koh Phangan

I ended up getting to to Haad Rin just after sunset.  I drove around and found the town remarkably similar to the infamous backpacker’s ghetto Khaosan Road in Bangkok.  It was like a whole town of Khaosan road with tons of backpackers, tourists along with shops and of course 7-elevens.  I thought it was pretty cool but instead of going out and partying I ended up getting exhausted so I had to find a hotel where I ended up crashing without getting to sample Haad Rin’s infamous night life.

Places to Stay in Haad Rin Koh Phangan, Thailand:  DROP IN CLUB RESORT & SPA - Coming Soon

Things to Do on Koh Phangan

Full Moon Party

If you are interested in the Full Moon party or any of its offshoots such as the Half Moon Party or Black Moon party you should check out their official website:  FullMoonParty-Thailand.com There are numerous websites online completely devoted to killing your brain cells in mass quantities, enjoy!

Haad Rin - One of the Most Developed Areas on Koh Phangan

Beach & Water Activities

Anyone headed to a tropical island should not be surprised to find beach and water activities and Koh Phangan is no exception.  There are many beaches and all the water anyone could want and more.  Most beaches I saw on Phangan were not very crowded with the exception of Haad Rin Beach the scene of the full moon party.  All water activities from snorkeling to jet skiing to fishing are available as well and are best booked ahead.

Exploring

Riding a motorcycle or scooter on Koh Phangan is an adventure in itself.  While some roads are in perfect condition, calling others “roads” to begin with is doing them too much justice.  If you want to explore every inch of Phangan I would recommend recommend renting a dirt bike rather than a normal scooter.  I saw numerous couples having difficult climbing up hills in their low powered scooters.  I had enough trouble navigating the pot holed roads on a scooter by myself during dry season I couldn’t imagine trying to get around on a scooter when the mud/clay roads are wet, in addition to impossible it is likely extremely dangerous.

Elephant Trekking

Since most of Kho Phangan is covered with dense mountainous jungle, on the back of an elephant is the best way to explore some of it.  I saw a few elephant stables one which was near Kuan Yin Shrine almost caused me to get in a wreck because there was a stray horse in the middle of the road.

Hiking

Like Samui, there are numerous “waterfalls” on Kho Phangan.  If you arrive in the dry season expect those waterfalls to be less than a trickle if there is any water at all.  There are plenty of places to hike on Phangan which are best accessed with a group.  There are numerous beaches which have few if any roads which are only accessible by hiking or boat.  If you like hiking, plan ahead, get a tour guide and you can find it on Phangan.

Chinese Temple

The Kuan Yin Shrine is a Chinese mountain temple.  It is located rather close to Thong Sala town and pier and is easily accessible and impossible to miss on one of the main, high quality roads of Koh Phangan.  View more Photos of Thailand’s Island Temples on tourismPICS.com

Kuan Yin Shrine a Chinese Temple in Koh Phangan

Leaving Koh Phangan

The options for leaving Koh Phangan involve taking a boat to the coast of Thailand’s mainland or to another island.  Since I had all my belongings at Koh Samui I had fewer choices.  I hastily returned my scooter to the vendor which was literally 50 meters across from the ticket booths only to find the boat back to Big Buddha Pier on Samui didn’t leave for another 5 hours!

The bad news wasn’t so bad at all because it gave me another 5 hours on the island which allowed me to explore the main roads I missed the day before and a waterfall which included a hike to a viewpoint which I was able to get some of the following Koh Phangan photos.

View more Photos from Koh Phangan at tourismPICS.com

Leaving Koh Phangan

Overall Impression

I had no intention of going to Koh Phangan’s Full Moon, Half Moon or Black Moon Parties.  The reason I traveled to the Thai islands in the first place was to relax and while it was relatively difficult to relax on Koh Samui, Koh Phangan had a lot more quiet and peaceful places to relax and most importantly didn’t have the buzzing circular traffic 24 hours a day.

I loved Koh Phangan.  On Koh Phangan there were dozens of kilometers of beautiful white sand beaches with less than a dozen people on them.  That is my idea of a tropical paradise and that is exactly what I consider Koh Phangan.  It really has just enough of everything without going overboard.  Yes the infamous Full Moon parties are crazy but that is such a small percentage of the island.

I was only on Koh Phangan for around 24 hours which in no way does it justice.  There is so much to do, so much to explore on Koh Phangan the next time I go back I will definitely spend at least a week there.  I would recommend any travelers who want to relax on a tropical island, go hiking, elephant trekking, swimming, snorkeling, beach bumming to their heart’s content to spend at least a week on Phangan.

Even if your soul goal is to party like a rock star and have a wild night on Haad Rin beach’s Full Moon Party you can still explore the entire island in a week or simply relax on a secluded beach with your friends during the day and that includes nursing your hangover.  I just can’t say enough positive things about Koh Phangan a great relaxing place which is definitely on the list of places I will return to in the near future.

Old Hut overlooking Yet Another white sand Koh Phangan Beach

View more Photos from Koh Phangan at tourismPICS.com

Getting to Koh Samui

If you’re at all familiar with the geography of Thailand you may already know that often times it’s not as simple as simply booking a flight, landing, getting to the hotel and lounging on the beach.  Some of Thailand’s islands have only a few thousand if any inhabitants while others are almost completely developed.

Koh Samui happens to be one of the 3 largest islands along with the Phuket and Koh Chang.  While Koh Chang doesn’t have an airport and requires a ferry from the mainland’s Trat airport Phuket and Koh Samui both have an airport but with the airport at Koh Samui there is a catch.

The airport on Koh Samui was built by Bangkok Airways which for a long time was the sole airline occupying the airport.  Times have changed and now Thai Airways has a couple flights in and out of Samui along with a couple tiny airlines but if you plan to head to Samui you’re probably going to be flying Bangkok Airways.

This is not to say Bangkok Airways, “Asia’s Boutique Airline” is not good but it does limit your options especially if you pay attention to airfare.  Due to the obvious lack of competition Bangkok Airways can charge a few extra baht for each flight.  I was flying from Singapore so I paid what I thought was a lot more than a typical domestic flight in Thailand.

Bangkok Airways Plane Flying over Big Buddha Pier on Koh Samui

Getting Situated on Koh Samui

I picked a bungalow which was the very cheapest accommodations for Koh Samui on Hotels.com which was located in Mae Nam Beach which was supposed to be one of the quieter areas on Koh Samui.  Upon arrival I went to the one and only counter for taxi and was quoted 600 baht ($18 USD) for a ride to my bungalow.

I pretty much knew I was paying way too much for a cab or one of those pickup truck style cabs with 2 rows of seats in the back but I wasn’t in the mood for inconveniencing myself so I just plunked down the 600 baht and in 15 minutes I was at my hotel.  If you arrive to Samui Airport and don’t want to spend 600 baht to get to your bungalow make sure you plan your transport in advance.

Places to Stay on Koh Samui Thailand, Bungalow – Coming Soon

Koh Samui Island

My Koh Samui experience was quite different than what I expected.  I was under the impression that Koh Samui was a quiet and peaceful island which wasn’t overdeveloped like Phuket, Hawaii or other popular tourist islands but Samui was just that.  I specifically avoided Koh Phangan because I thought it was going to be covered with drunk teenagers attending full moon parties and overcrowded roads but that is exactly what Koh Samui was like.

I rented a Honda Scooter (moped?) from the Bungalow for 250 baht ($7.50 USD) which was overpaying and began to drive around Koh Samui.  When I say drive around It’s not a figure of speech.  The main road of Koh Samui is a 2-way 2-4 lane road that goes in a circle around the entire island.  My hotel manager said it takes from 45-60 minutes to go around the whole island.

There are many interior roads, the ones I drove on were all paved and in very good condition (note the exception pictured below) as opposed to what I read which said they were all bad.  The huge problem with getting around via scooter on Koh Samui is the absolutely ridiculous sign overload.  I’m not exaggerating when I say after you see the sign of the place you are trying to get to, you will see 20-50 signs before your turn.

In addition to being really annoying this showed some serious overdevelopment of Koh Samui’s coast and beaches.  Most of the beaches were either crowded tourist beaches like the two most popular Chaweng and Lamai or smaller beaches lined with resorts.

Typical Beach Scene Surrounding Koh Samui

Things to do on Koh Samui

If you don’t plan on driving around in circles like I did you should probably plan your things-to-do itinerary before you set out.  Even if you plan it out, make sure you have a general idea of how far you need to go so you don’t get confused by the sign overload.  At the very least, if you are driving yourself, drive very slowly on the far side of the road to be able to see where you want to go.

Beach Bum it

If being on the beach and in the water is your thing there is no shortage of it on Koh Samui.  You will no doubt be sharing it with hundreds of Western tourists but there is an abundance of water activities from surfing to snorkeling to jet skiing.  While 90% of anyone visiting a tropical island wants to take advantage of this, alternative activities are important for if you get bored or get that likely bad sunburn.

Grandmother and Grandfather Rock

Tourist attraction rock formations which resemble human genitalia are not entirely unusual (See Halong Bay, Vietnam) but Koh Samui has its own version.  I didn’t get a chance to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock mostly because I was caught up in the turbulent traffic swirl and missed the sign.  I didn’t get a chance to take my own photos but I got the idea from other people’s photos.  If you want to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock you’re in luck because it’s very close to Lamai Beach one of Koh Samui’s 2 most popular beach and areas.

Grandfather & Grandmother Rocks

“Templing”

Not that Koh Samui is the best place in Thailand to visit Buddhist temples and shrines but there are a fair share.  The most popular temple to visit in Koh Samui is the Big Buddha, located very close to Big Buddha Pier which is the primary embarkation point for Koh Phangan and other nearby islands.  There are various small shrines and temples on the island which I didn’t get a chance to visit.  Another rather large temple which I happened to visit was Wat Nuan Naram which you can more on the following link.

Thai Island Temple Photos on tourismPICS.com.

Hiking & Trekking

I had this 1000+ meter peak behind the Bungalow that was beckoning me.  My plan was to hike it so I went to 7-Eleven and bought some Man Vs. Wild survival gear like a cigarette lighter, flashlight, small pocket knife as well as a fresh phone card for in case I got lost.

Little did I know the hills in Koh Samui are no joke.  My Man vs Wild survivor kit was sorely lacking mosquito repellent and in the first 30 seconds I had to stop after getting my leg sliced up by some cactus like plants, I had about 500 mosquitoes buzzing around the fresh meat.  Needless to say I wimped out and saved the hiking for another day.

There are many mountains on Koh Samui and many opportunities to hike them on foot, mountain bikes, ATVs and of course elephant back.  None of these activities are going to be something you will do on your own so if you are interested by hiking and trekking make sure you call one of the many groups and make plans.

Eat, Drink & Party

It is Koh Samui’s close neighbor island Koh Phangan is world renowned for its Full Moon Parties but there is no shortage of partying on Koh Samui.  Aside from the huge night club Green Mango in Chaweng which could be in any urban city center to there is a ton of night life venues mainly concentrated in Chaweng and Lamai beach areas but there are also smaller, low key spots throughout the island.

Party at Green Mango Night Club in Koh Samui

Leaving Koh Samui

I had a 6pm flight from Koh Samui back to Bangkok.  With check-out time being at 12pm it meant I had a few hours to kill.  I planned to write for this blog so I wanted an internet connection and most importantly air conditioning.  I was worried about getting stuck at the small Samui Airport for 6 hours but rather than lugging my big bag around I decided to bite the bullet and wait at the airport.

What I didn’t know was Samui’s airport had a very nice boutique-like row of shops and restaurants.  There was everything from a sports bar, to a professional massage studio to ice cream shops, coffee shops and eateries.

All were air conditioned and the coffee shop even had a free wireless internet connection with any purchase.  Needless to say I got some work done and consumed some delicious extra calories before I boarded my Bangkok Airways flight back to Bangkok.  If you have some extra time on Koh Samui I would recommend going to the airport early what you’re going to find there is likely better than anything else on the island!

Bangkok Airways Koh Samui Airport Shops & Restaurants

Overall Impression

I still have nightmares of all the signs in Koh Samui.  It bugged me to the end and it made getting around way more difficult than it should have been.  While I thought there were many beautiful sights on Koh Samui it wasn’t what I envision when I think of a tropical Island.  Of course it still is Thailand so it is still covered in nice, laid back people.

I had just came from Singapore so it was really easy for me to appreciate the Thailand cost of living as well although some things were priced for the tourist.  While I liked some parts about Koh Samui and would consider going back before I left, I probably would bypass Koh Samui next time and use it for Bangkok Airway’s “boutique” airport after visiting its less developed neighbor, Koh Phangan.

View the Complete Koh Samui Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Places to Visit from Bangkok, Thailand – Koh Phangan

Singapore’s East Coast Park

One of the first things anyone who goes to Singapore will notice is East Coast Park simply because every form of transport leaving the airport drives by it on the way to the city.  It seemed very peaceful as you could see the aqua blue water and white sand beaches with a nearby canopy of tall trees.

East Coast Park was on my to do list as soon as I saw it but I purposely decided to wait until early the next week because I had a premonition of big weekend crowds.  I went on a Monday afternoon and the crowds were pretty tame.  My plans were to check out the beaches and go for a bicycle ride.

My primary objective was to get a good physical workout with a nice bike ride but I took some time to take some pictures and check out Singapore’s coast.  I inspected some of the many beaches in East Coast park and they ranged from small to medium sized white sand beaches to artificial jetty-like structures which showed that all the beaches were probably man made.

Cement on the Left - Beach on the Right - Singapore City in Background

Bicycle  Rental

I stupidly went to the first bike rental shop I saw which was right next to the eatery complex complete with McDonalds, Burger King a couple Chinese restaurants and more.  Without thinking I plucked down 10 Singapore dollars ($7 USD) and my ID (I used my California’s driver’s license) to get my bike.

Their “best bike” was a hybrid of some kind.  In the first 10 seconds I tried to ride it became evident that there was not a chance in hell I would make it more than a mile in this bike.  I’m used to nice bikes, not Lance Armstrong quality road bikes, but bikes that can ‘get on it.’  As I was riding down the bike path around 100 meters towards Changi Airport I saw another bike shop.

I went to the other bike shop and asked them what their best bike was.  They showed me a few nice hybrid bikes, road bikes and mountain bikes.  The higher end bikes cost a bit more, I chose a Cannondale hybrid which cost 20 Singapore dollars ($14.30 USD) but it was well worth it.  I immediately returned the crap bike to the first bike shop, without asking for a refund and was on my way.

Beachfront Bicycle Shop with Crappy Bikes

Bicycle Ride

Bike Path with Marked Pedestiran Crossing

The bike path was very nice and wide, free from potholes with more than enough signs to tell you everything you want to know.  There were red and white pedestrian crossings throughout as well.

This was my first time at East Coast park so I had no idea how far the bicycle path went but the plan was to go all the way to the airport.  I started riding and stopped a few times but ride as far as the path went.   East Coast Park actually ends in a few kilometers from the bike shop but there are numerous “connector” parks and other parks connected.  Yet again, a Singapore dot gov website details all the parks and connections.

I ended up riding all the way past Changi (Singapore International) airport to land’s end where there was a culdesac (pictured below).  Luckily for me or anyone who decides to go on this bike ride there are 3 or 4 little areas with shops and/or restaurants for refreshments and most importantly bottles of cold drinking water.

Interestingly, I noticed quite a few people which looked to be Malay from their head scars camping throughout the parks towards the end of the bike path.  I got some refreshments at the end of the path found an empty park bench and drank some fruit juice before I readied myself for the ride back.

End of the Road Land's End: Pasir Ris park

Overall Impression

On the way back the time was nearing 4pm and I could tell as the park was getting more crowded.  More bicyclists, rollerbladers and joggers were crowding the park which gave me the impression that it would be pretty crowded on the weekends.  Bicycling as far as I could figure out you could go from East Coast Park I could see dozens of empty small beaches.

East Coast Park is about as natural as you’re going to get on Singapore and anyone who wants to cool off in the calm aqua waters, relax on the beach, get physically active with bicycling, rollerblading, jogging, snorkeling East Park is worth a trip.  There is even a golf course and yes, Singapore’s First Cable Ski Park, and surely some surprises for a first time visitor.  I would recommend anyone who finds themselves in Singapore for an extended period of time, get a tube of sunblock, your favorite book and head to East Coast Park for a peaceful ocean breeze and a variety of physical activity if you choose to be active.

Getting to Singapore Botanic Gardens

I saw Singapore Botanic Gardens in one of the Singapore tourist maps so I decided to check it out.  It is open every day from 5am until midnight and the admission is free with the exception of the National Orchid Garden within the park that charges 5 Singapore dollars ($3.57 USD).

I took a taxi to Singapore Botanic Gardens as there is currently no nearby MRT station.  There is an MRT station being built nearby which should be done some time in 2010.  You can get specific directions and information about Singapore Botanic Gardens on the official dot sg website like most of Singapore’s attractions have.

There are two main entrances to Singapore Botanic Gardens.  You can see the view from one of the entrances below (I apologize for not knowing the name).  Upon arrival and through the gate there was a square with some waterfalls, plants and of course a little cafe/restaurant.  I was very hungry at the time so I ordered some pasta and a salad which were both very good although overpriced a bit.  I remember the salad being especially delicious.  After I satisfied my hunger it was time to explore.

Entrance to Singapore Botanic Gardens, Restaurant & Food

Singapore Botanic Gardens

I thought I was going to a rose garden but it turned out Singapore Botanic Gardens is simply a large park.  Symphony Lake (photo at top of post) was one of the first things to see after eating at the cafe.  There was a small amphitheater on the lake as well as grassy hills with school classes on field trips.

Throughout Singapore Botanic Gardens there are little placards with information next to all the various plants, flowers and trees.  There was a large section under construction when I was there but I still had a chance to check out the National Orchid Garden.  After paying the 5 Singapore dollar admission there are numerous paths with various plants, waterfalls and art.

I spent a little over an hour in Singapore Botanic Gardens so I can hardly do it justice.  It would take a few hours to thoroughly explore the whole park so if you find yourself in Singapore and want to explore and/or relax, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a place than can occupy quite a bit of your time.

There are a few bathrooms throughout were really nice along with vending machines with cold refreshments.  PLEASE NOTE:  Always carry 1 Singapore dollar coins with you because very few vending machines in Singapore had working paper money slots and believe me, cold refreshments are a must have when you’re walking around directly on the equator.

Moss covered Planter in the National Orchid Garden

The Cool House

The Cool House was one of many things to see in Singapore Botanic Gardens but I single it out because it was so ‘cool’ at the time.  Not unlike the rest of my trip to Singapore as I was walking around packing 10 pounds of camera equipment I got extremely hot and sweaty.  I don’t know if it was me, all the plants, the hills or being directly on the equator, but it felt like I was deep in the Amazon rain forest jungle.

Out of nowhere I saw a sign for the Cool House.  I didn’t know if it was a cafe or some sort of exhibit and I soon found it was the latter.  The Cool House was a small, climate controlled greenhouse with a cool weather ecosystem.  It was only about 20 meters long but the cool misty controlled environment felt so nice that I just stayed in there for about 16 minutes.  Inside the Cool House was an assortment of plants as well as a running stream and waterfall.

Entrance to the Refreshing 'Cool House'

Overall Impression

Singapore Botanic Gardens is much more than what it sounds like.  Similar to Central Park in New York or Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a rather large city park with a multitude of things to do whether it is sitting down and relaxing, looking at flowers and plant life or playing a game of Frisbee with friends.

Singapore Botanic Gardens also has a lot of things to take pictures of for you photography lovers out there.  If you’re in Singapore on a rushed business trip and don’t have time to relax Singapore Botanic Gardens can probably wait until your next visit.  I would recommend a trip to Singapore Botanic Gardens for anyone who happens to find themselves in Singapore with a few spare hours.

View the Complete Singapore Photo Set at tourismPICS.com

Singapore’s Accommodations

I’m sure there is a way to classify hotels as high-end, mid-range and budget but it is a little different in Singapore.  It seemed to me that Singapore is sorely lacking mid-range hotels.  Searching for hotels on Hotels.com I could find a bunch of very affordable hostels and more than enough high end hotels but no many mid-range priced $40-80 USD hotels.

I was seriously considering Novotel which has a perfect location and all the luxury amenities for around $200 USD per night when I thought about the price difference.  The Fragrance Hotel prices were around $40 per night which I figured to be 5 nights for the price of 1 when compared to Novotel.  I decided that saving major cash would be a better choice so I booked a room at Fragrance Hotel Pearl off Geylang Road.

Somewhere along Geylang Road, Singapore

Typical "Point at what you Want" hawker stall on Geylang Road

Fragrance Hotel Pearl

First off, there are numerous ‘Fragrance Hotels.’  They are mostly centered in Singapore’s red light district off Geylang Road.  “Red Light District” may have negative connotations to some but to me it also usually means lively and cheap.

I was concerned about the location but Fragrance Hotel Pearl actually had a great location.  It was a 10 minute walk to the Kallang MRT station which was 3 stops from City Hall, and 5 stops to either Little India or Chinatown.  Geylang road was renowned for its street food and it took me about 10 minutes before I was getting some delicious Malay/Indian/Chinese Singaporean food which was located on every corner of Geylang Road.

If you’re not staying near Geylang road it is certainly one of Singapore’s tourist attractions in itself as to me it felt like Bangkok more than Singapore, not because of the abundance of karaoke bars and ladies walking on the street but because it was a little dirty and rough, not clean and organized like most of Singapore.

The hotel room at Fragrance Hotel Pearl was just what you would expect for $40 a night.  There was a bed, a desk, a small wardrobe along with an attached bathroom which was the typical tropical style mixed toilet/shower.  Although there was a TV with cable there was no mini fridge, microwave or safe.  NOTE:  Wireless internet was available but at a price.  A 24 hour internet access card cost a whopping 18 Singapore Dollars ($12.87 USD) which I think is quite ridiculous even though I paid it.

Room in Fragrance Hotel Pearl, Singapore

Typical Tropical Style Shower/Toilet in Fragrance Hotel

Overall Impression

I will admit there were a couple times where I wished I had all the extra amenities of a Novatel but in hindsight if money is at all a concern, I’d rather have 5 nights at a fully comfortable although lacking hotel room than an overkill hotel room.  I would recommend staying in Singapore at Fragrance Hotel Pearl to anyone with the same attitude which I just mentioned.  If you spend more time out of the hotel room than inside, why spend 5x more for luxury accommodations?

Even though soliciting prostitution is illegal in public in Singapore there were ladies with umbrellas standing on the sidewalk across from Fragrance Hotel Pearl from 9am (earliest I woke up) until 4am (latest I went to bed).  It didn’t bother me, but if it is a concern to you, keep this in mind if you decide to choose a hotel anywhere near Geylang Road.  If this doesn’t bother you and want to spend $40USD per night staying in Singapore at a convenient location with great food, Fragrance Hotel Pearl is the place to stay in Singapore.

Common Sight along Geylang Road 24 hours a day

Perfect way to See Singapore

Upon arriving in Singapore I took the SMRT directly from my hotel off Geylang Road 4 stops to City Hall station from a friend’s recommendations.  From the City Hall MRT station I walked to Marina  Bay which is what I would consider THE spot in Singapore for any visitors to visit.

Marina Bay has many sights and things to do including everything from cheap food hawkers to a newly built high-end hotel and casino to Singapore’s spiky looking performing arts venue the Esplanade and of course its mascot, the Merlion.  Marina Bay goes on up Singapore River past Singapore’s classy night life and dining areas Boat Quay (pronounced “key”) and Clarke Quay.

The “30 minute tour” ticket was only $15 Singapore ($10.70USD) but I wanted to do the boat tour at dusk so I could get photos of Singapore in the light as well city light photos in the dark.  I didn’t take the Singapore river boat tour on my first day because I wanted to get the Singapore Zoo and night safari out of the way so I left.  In hindsight I wish I went on the boat tour on the first day.

River Boat and Ticket Office at Merlion

Boat from the Merlion

I came back 2 days later and bought a “30 minute tour” ticket from the ticket stand right next to the Merlion (pictured above).  The river boat was not very crowded on a weekday in between 6 and 7.  It took off and I sat in the very back to take some photos.  There was a pre-recorded voice which tells a brief history about everything passed during the boat tour.

The boat tour is actually a taxi which stops at 4-5 places along Singapore River.  The nightlife/dining areas Boat Quay and Clarke Quay were very close to the central business district.  Towards the end of the river boat tour I was able to see the Novotel Hotel which I was going to splurge to stay at and I realized that the location was very prime which also probably justified the price.

View from Boat

Overall Impression

Singapore River Boat tour, isn’t really a ‘tour’ it’s more like a taxi which give you a nice breezy lift from Marina Bay to anywhere along Singapore River. I consider the river boat tour is an immediate essential “thing to do” for anyone who visiting Singapore.  Just feeling the vibe of Singapore is worth the price of admission.  I was able to get some good photos with my Nikon D700 digital SLR and Nikkor 14-24mm F/2.8 which you can see below.

View More Photos from Singapore River Boat Tour on tourismPICS.com

I did NOT go on Singapore Flyer

I usually wouldn’t blog about something I didn’t do but since the Singapore Flyer is a very prominent landmark in Singapore I thought I’d give a quick blog rundown.  Singapore Flyer is the world’s tallest Ferris wheel (Described by its operators as an observation wheel).  It reaches 42 stories high, with a total height of 541 ft (165 m).

The Singapore Flyer is located near the shore of Singapore’s Marina Bay at an area of Marina Centre known as Marina Promenade.  The Singapore Flyer also offers a great view of the Marina Bay Street Circuit of the Singapore Grand Prix as it is located just beside the straight between turns 21 and 22 of the circuit and near the pit stops.  Although I didn’t go on it, I got some great photos of it.

Singapore Flyer from a Nearby Bridge

Admission Information

From talking to taxi drivers I got the impression that every capsule was set up like the sample capsules (below) which were nearby.  Since I was traveling alone I didn’t really feel like sitting in a capsule for 37 minutes as I remember being bored in the giant Ferris wheel in Yokohama, Japan.  In hindsight I now wish I did for the sake of photography and to be able to say I did.  I got the following from another website.

“There are 4 options for going on the Singapore Flyer First, a basic Singapore Flight at one rotation of about 30 minutes cost 29.50 SGD ($21 USD) for adults, 20.65 SGD for children (3-12 years old; 0-3 years old are free) and 23.60 SGD for Seniors (60 years old onwards).

Second, the Express Boarding contains the basic Singapore Flight and bypasses the ticket boarding queue for and exclusive check-in and in-flight guide. It costs 52 SGD for adults, 36.40 SGD for children and 41.60 SGD for Seniors.

Third option is the Singapore Cocktail Flight which includes the express boarding plus a glass of specially concocted cocktail drink to sip while taking in spectacular foods. (Note that no food and beverage aside from this are allowed inside the capsule.)  It costs 69 SGD ($49 USD)  for adults, 48.30 SGD for children and 55.20 SGD for Seniors.”

Singapore Flyer Ferris Wheel Capsule

Preview Inside the Singapore Flyer Ferris Wheel Capsule

Experience Singapore Flyer

If I was with a group of friends or had a date I would have probably went on the Singapore Flyer but I was alone so I just photographed it from various locations around Marina Bay.  I would recommend anyone in Singapore who wants to see the city from multiple vantage points and possibly grab a drink or bite to eat to check out the Singapore Flyer.  Like I said before in hindsight I should have went on the somewhat overpriced “observation wheel” but I didn’t so the memories I have now are pretty much what’s in the following photos.

View the Full Singapore Flyer Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Mount Faber is Definitely No Everest

Mount Faber Park Map (click to enlarge)

For some reason Mount Faber sounds like a grand peak somewhere in the European Alps when in fact it is more of a hill in Singapore.  To put the size of Mount Faber in perspective consider the highest natural point in San Francisco, Mount Davidson.  Mount Davidson is 928 feet (283 m) above sea level while Mount Faber in Singapore is about a thrid of that at 344 feet (105m) .

I was told by my friend who happens to be from Singapore that Mount Faber was a great place to visit for anyone who likes to take pictures as there are some of the best views of Singapore.  Mount Faber is actually a entire park which you can view the map to the right.

I wanted to get some good day, dusk and night photographs of Singapore so I decided to head to Mount Faber around 4pm on a Monday.  It was on the other side of Singapore from Geylang where I was staying.

Mount Faber Park (in between groups of tourist busses)

Getting to Mount Faber

Mount Faber is accessible from the HarborFront MRT station but I took the taxi from my hotel.  My taxi driver gave me a heart stopping moment as he floored the beater taxi up the steep and curvy road to Mount Faber causing the car to lose control.  The taxi fistailed in 3 big curves before he gained control about 10 meters from hitting an oncoming tourist bus.

The taxi driver dropped me off at the Jewel Box which is a Singapore Cable Car Station / restaurant / bar.  I went in and talked to a couple of the ladies working there and took a couple of photos.  I was offered a drink at the outdoor restaurant/bar but I was ready to explore Mount Faber park while it was still light.

I found a good viewpoint to shoot some shots at the time and later then I carried on upwards.  Amidst several tourist buses with Japanese and Chinese tourists I found some relaxing areas.  The path pictured above is next to a very steep drop off looked like it was set up for a view of the harbor bay but the only view was the dense vegetation.  The sun was going down fast so I decided to climb up to the peak.

Steps going up to Mount Faber's Peak

Mount Faber Peak

I was profusely sweating in the very humid weather as I hiked further up Mount Faber to get to the peak.  It was around 5pm and the tourist groups were filtering out so I was almost by myself which was nice just to hear the birds and sounds of what’s left of the rain forest.  Up the steps pictured above was the peak of Mount Faber which had a surprise for me.

There was a outdoor hall area with a couple dozen plaques showing Singapore’s past in pictures as well as words.  I thought it was pretty interesting as you could walk around and go through the history of Singapore.

Just when I thought I had learned some knowledge I got to the very top where there was a cool illuminated, compass-like display on the ground.  You can see in the photo on the top of this post.  The arrows are actually pointing to other countries and cities.  On the ground close to each arrow is a name of the city or country the arrow is pointing to.  The views on the top are great although there are a few obstructions from getting perfect shots.

I took a bunch of photos of Singapore and the surround Harbor Bay before I left to find some air conditioning and some cold water.  There were no cabs on the peak as it was pretty much dark after I was done shooting photos so I decided to walk down.  On the way down I saw numerous joggers and couples going on relaxing walks.  There was a mixture of paths and steps going down towards a residential looking area of Singapore which had the Central Business District in the background.

View the Full Mount Faber Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Singapore History Plaques towards the Peak of Mount Faber

Overall Impression

Mount Faber is what it is.  The human made as well as natural highest point of any city is always going to be a place I want to check out.  There are a lot of relaxing areas with tables and chairs throughout the parts of Mount Faber Park that I saw.  I enjoyed the mini-history and geography lessons that the peak offered.  In addition to the large “Jewel Box” restaurant there was a smaller outdoor restaurant which would be a nice, quiet place for a meal with a great view.  Anyone visiting Singapore will find Mount Faber a good place to spend a couple hours whether it be sight seeing, dining or exercising.

View the Full Mount Faber Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Fleeing Bangkok

I had just got back to Bangkok from San Francisco where I had visited Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon to extend my student Visa and re-start my Thai Language classes when I heard that the “red shirts” were at it again.  Without getting into details, tens of thousands and possibly millions of (mostly rural) Thai people unhappy with the current government were planning on converging on Bangkok for a huge protest.

Mass gatherings are not my cup of tea especially ones that could bring bombings or violent military responses.  I’d probably feel most comfortable in a large crowd of Thai people than any other but that’s not saying much.  My dislike for being in large crowds culminated as I was getting squashed and pickpocket during New Years on Copacabana Beach in Brazil and I have no desire to experience that again.

I felt that I needed stability in the midst of the political instability of Bangkok so why not head to one of the purported safest and most stable countries in the world?  I booked a one way Jetstar Asia flight to Singapore for Thursday the day before I heard there was to be a big red shirt rally in Bangkok on March 12, 2010.

Seeing Red on the Streets of Bangkok

Finding a Hotel in Singapore

I booked my flight to Singapore with a relatively short notice so as usual I had to scramble to find a hotel.  I used sites such as Hotels.com and AsiaRooms.com to get the general range of places to stay in Singapore and I discovered that there is not much as far as mid-range hotels go.

The cheap prices that came up in searches were usually hostels and budget hotels without basic amenities while the expensive hotels cost an arm and a leg.  I was debating a night at Novotel which is located directly on the scenic, vibrant Clarke Quay dining and night life area but the cost came up to around $200 a night which was too much for the 6 hours I’d be spending there sleeping.  I ended up staying at the same hotel for my entire stay which was located in the Geylang area.

Places to Stay in Singapore:  Fragrance Hotel Pearl

Colorful Singapore Police Station

Getting Around in Singapore

Often times the subway is the best way to get around in large cities.  When a subway is convenient I will always take the subway as the first method of getting around when traveling to new cities.  My hotel was located a 10 minute walk from the nearest MRT station.

About 10 minutes after getting the hotel room I strapped on my camera bag and began walking toward the MRT station.  It was Thursday afternoon around 1 or 2pm so as I arrived to the MRT station profusely sweating.  There were multiple lines at this station so I asked the MRT workers for help.

Upon arriving to the ticket machine you will see a rather large LCD display with the entire Singapore MRT system on it.  There are 6 options on the left one which is “buy single trip ticket.”  After choosing single trip ticket you are asked to select your destination by touching the map on the LCD display.  I believe the maximum cost was $2 Singapore which is around $1.40 USD which I found to be quite a bargain as some trips were well over a dozen stops.

My first trip on SMRT was only 4 stops and I was expecting a light load on the subways being it was mid-day on a normal week day.  Upon entering the train I was rather shocked to see how crowded the subway was.  I asked a student in the subway if it was always this crowded and he told me it was.  I was only going 4 stops to the City Hall MRT to see the harbor so it didn’t bother me too much.

Singapore City Hall MRT Station - 3:20pm Thursday

Things to Do in Singapore

I had an open ended itinerary in Singapore so my plan was to play it by ear.  Other than the few ideas for things to do in Singapore I got from my old client and friend Alvin which I wrote on a note card and put in my wallet upon arriving I really had no idea what I’d be doing.

Along with my friend’s recommendations I picked up 2 or 3 Singapore tourist maps at the airport.  I didn’t notice it until the end of my trip but each map was for something different.  There was a ‘medical’ map which listed all the hospitals and spas, a ‘night life’ map as well as a general tourism map.  I used the tourism map as a basic guide as I did some of the following:

Singapore River Boat Tour

Singapore Zoo / Night Safari

Jurong Bird Park

Singapore Botanic Gardens

East Coast Park Bicycle Ride

Singapore Flyer

Mount Faber Hike – Sight Seeing

Singapore Cable Car

The cable car was out of service when I was in Singapore.  It is actually a “bi-cable gondola lift” which is a cable suspended air trolley with glass bottoms for sight seeing.  Singapore cable car has 3 stations originating from 300m above sea level at the top of Mount Faber to the Harbour front station located on the edge of as well as Singapore’s resort island, Sentosa.  The fair cost of the cable car ride is 19 Singapore dollars ($13.40 USD) which would make worth doing, especially if you like taking photos and/or want to get to Sentosa in style.

Sentosa

Sentosa, which translates to peace and tranquility in Malay, is Singapore’s mega popular island resort, visited by some five million people a year. Attractions include a two-kilometre long sheltered beach, Fort Siloso, two golf courses and two five-star hotels, and the Resorts World Sentosa, featuring the new theme park Universal Studios Singapore.  Since I was traveling alone and was heading to Koh Samui and Koh Phangan, Thailand after Singapore so I decided to skip my trip to Sentosa as I would rather spend less in Thailand and experience natural beauty than what I perceive as an artificial paradise.

Sentosa Island Montage (courtesy of Wikipedia)

Shopping

As with most large Asian cities, you can’t cram in 5 million people on a small area without having tremendous amounts of shopping centers and Singapore is no exception.  Places to shop range from small knock off clothes vendors to high-end luxury stores such as Hermes and Louis Vuitton. This paragraph blurb hardly does Singapore’s shopping scene justice.  If you are into shopping and find yourself in Singapore you will find everything you need and then some.

The prices seemed to be fair unlike Tokyo but probably more than places such as Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur where many Singaporeans go looking for deals.  As usual I didn’t spend much shopping for stuff but I did pick up a new Kata 123-Go 30 camera bag at Funan Digital Life mall, one of the 2 highly recommended electronic shopping areas by everyone along with Sim Lim Square which I didn’t have a chance to get to.

Ground Floor of Funan Digital Life Mall - Singapore

Places to Eat in Singapore:  Everywhere!

I was very impressed with the food in Singapore.  First off, I love Indian food and I had a chance to try numerous types of Indian food I had never eaten before in Singapore.  The convergence between Chinese, Indian, Malay and even Japanese people seemed to make Singapore a culinary paradise.

Geylang Road

I ate off hawker stands for almost every meal and was never dissatisfied.  Along with cheap food all over the city/country there is a large assortment of fine dining options as well.

Delicious Muslim Indian Food along Singapore's Geylang Road

Little India

To be honest I expected a lot more from Little India.  I expected it to be a huge section of Singapore when in fact it seemed to be more like a couple blocks.  The Indian food I had in Little India was definitely not a disappointment though.  For a very cheap price I got a huge square grass-like plate of some of the most delicious Indian Food I’ve ever had and Indian Food is my favorite!  I could have probably explored Little India in Singapore a little bit more but I’ll leave that up to you.

Typical Narrow Colorful Streets of Singapore's Little India

Chinatown

Chinatown was even less impressive than Little India.  Since the population of Singapore consists 70% ethnic Chinese I didn’t really expect too much from Chinatown and I was not surprised when it turned out to be a small shopping center with some small shops as well as food stalls.  I got a couple pork buns and was on my way as there is a Chinatown MRT station right in the center of Singapore’s Chinatown.

View from the Edge of Singapore's Chinatown

Overall Impression

After the initial “cool” factor of visiting a new place I always think about whether I’d ever live there and Singapore immediately received my seal of approval.  When thinking about it, it took me a while to come up with some reasons why I wouldn’t want to live in Singapore and one was the slight sterile feeling.

I would recommend anyone visiting Southeast Asia to check out Singapore for at least 3 days.  If anything it will give you a stark contrast from some of the less developed countries as although Singapore is still classified as a “developing country” it is just as developed as any city in the USA along with being safer, cleaner and friendlier.

View the full Singapore Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Marina Bay, Esplanade & Singapore's Central Business District

View the full Singapore Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Getting to Jurong Bird Park

Jurong Bird Park was not at all close to where I was staying off Geylang Road. The flyer I picked up my hotel, Fragrance Hotel Pearl gave rather simple 5 step directions via car which it said would take 30 minutes and MRT which would take 60 min.

I had basically given up the MRT by day 1 so I quickly hailed a cab outside of my hotel. I know it would probably cost at least 10x what the MRT would cost but my flight to Koh Samui was leaving later in the night so I didn’t want to waste any of my time. Little did I know that my taxi driver would do that for me.

Even though I gave my driver the bird park flyer with the map his driving was disastrous at best. He took the wrong turn at least 3 times, one almost to the Malaysian border checkpoint, stopped and asked for directions 4 separate occasions before getting me there. The fare on the meter was $36 Singapore but he only charged me $20 ($14 USD) because of his mishaps.

At Jurong Bird Park

As I expended, similar to the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari there was a little square with souvenirs and eateries right at the entrance to the bird park. There was a place selling Asian food and Ben & Jerry’s as well as a place called Bongo Burger. I had been eating Asian foods the entire time in Singapore to this point so I decided to eat at Bongo Burger.

Bongo burger was your typical cheesy theme fast food restaurant. The employees were wearing safari outfits and all the furniture and decorations were safari themed. The burger and fries were pretty good although cost around 15 Singapore dollars ($10 USD).  After 15 minutes in the fan cooled restaurant I was ready to explore Jurong Bird Park

Bongo Burger & Animal Chairs

Stained Glass Dome on way into Jurong Bird Park

Touring Jurong Bird Park

Jurong Bird Park was set up very similar to the Sinapore Zoo or all zoos for that matter.  There are wooden signs which tell which areas of the park have which kind of birds.  The different groups of birds ranged from penguins, to flightless birds to birds of prey. TAKE NOTE:  There are vending machines all over Jurong Bird Park but none of them take bills.  If you have a propensity to overheat, make sure you bring some $1 coins to get some chilling refreshments along the way or else you may be sweating buckets walking up the hills and steps throughout the park.

Just like the Singapore Zoo some of the bird exhibits were very camouflaged.  As you may imagine there was no shortage of birds in the park.
More than a couple exhibits had me wondering how the birds don’t escape as most of the park is open air.  This makes Jurong Bird Park a great place to take photos.

Everyone from professional photographers, to amateur photo enthusiasts, to kids with their cell phone cameras can enjoy taking photos of birds in Jurong Bird Park.  Consider that if you wanted to shoot photos of all the birds in the park you’d have to travel all over the world and get lucky in their natural habitat.  Below is a slide show with a small fraction of the birds at Jurong Bird Park.

Live Bird Show

Just as I was about to leave Jurong Bird Park to head straight to the Airport for my flight to Koh Samui, Thailand I heard a crowd of people buzzing.  I knew I had about an hour of leeway before my flight was to leave so I decided to check out and I’m glad I did.

The bird show featured some very, very trained birds.  To my surprise vultures were a main feature performing some pretty mind boggling feats of intelligence.  At one point I didn’t realize the handler was directly behind me and was buzzed by a giant vulture 6 inches above my head.  It caused me to miss the chance of some great shots with my Nikon D700 Digital SLR and monstrous Nikkor 70-200mm VR lens.  If you decide to visit Jurong Bird Park, make sure you check out the schedule so you won’t miss this fun and sometimes hair raising experience.

Everyone and their Mother Enjoying the Live Show at Jurong Bird Park in Singapore

Overall Impression

Balaniceps Rex aka Shoebill

Although the initial thoughts of visiting Jurong Bird Park didn’t really excite me and I essentially attended as a last minute time killer I had a great time.  I thought the presentation and content was excellent with a nice layout of the “bird zoo” along with a wide variety of birds from all over the world.

As well as the birds themselves there was a good amount of interesting information and exhibits all over the park which really interested me.  There were many locations that showed the close relationship which today’s birds have with the ancient dinosaurs and if you don’t believe me, check out the moment I caught the shoebill yawning (on the right).

I would highly recommend Jurong Bird park for anyone traveling with the family.  I saw numerous kids having a blast.  I was able to get much of the park in even though I had a flight all the way across Singapore in a couple hours.  I would guess at least 2, preferably 3-4 hours would be enough time to enjoy the park, have a bite to eat as well as check out the live show.

Again, I thought Jurong Bird Park was pretty cool and is included with the 3-for-1 pass you buy with admissions for the Singapore Zoo and night safari.  The $45 Singapore dollar ($32 USD) is good for up to 30 days so whether you love or hate birds, Jurong Bird Park should be on your Singapore:  Things to do list.

STRONGLY Suggests you Visit Jurong Bird Park in Singapore

Read about the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari