Getting to Sukhothai

I actually had a flight booked from Bangkok but I missed it when I decided to fly to Chiang Mai for their Yi Peng Lantern Festival instead.  Since I was not in a rush, instead of booking a flight from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai I decided to take the 5 hour air conditioned bus ride.  Buses from Bangkok are also available but it takes much longer than 5 hours.

Some Content coming sooon

Once you arrive in Sukhothai you will most likely want to take a bus or taxi into the town but you can also stay at accommodations which exist near the airport.  The reason you could want to stay near the airport is because it is located in between Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Historical parks.  Since Sukhothai historical park was more appealing to me I decided to stay closer to it.

Where to Stay in Sukhothai

I actually made paid a reservation for a hotel on Sawadee.com for a hotel which was close to the airport.   Immediately upon arrival to the bus station I was approached by touts for J&J guest house who told me the hotel I booked was away from Sukhothai so I stupidly followed their advice and went to J&J guest house which was in the new Sukhothai town.

While J&J Guesthouse was a pretty nice set of Bungalows along a river I was awaken by bed bugs so I decided to change hotels the next day.  I switched to Pailyn Hotel which seemed to be the largest hotel in Sukhothai and was a lot closer to the Historical Park which is where I would be spending most of my time.

I noticed some guest houses a bit closer to the historical park so if you’re into that style of accommodations you may want to look into it.  If you want to stay in a legit hotel with all the standard amenities then Pailyn Hotel is probably the best place to stay in Sukhothai if the historical park is your prime interest.

Things to Do:  Sukhothai Historical Park

Sukhothai is not Bangkok.  Most people who decide to go to Sukhothai are going there to visit the 2 historical parks.  Sukhothai Historical Park is a very large park which has numerous sections.  There is an admission for each section of 50 baht.  The park was a very peaceful and quiet place the time I went (End of November).  There was a fair amount of tourists but the park was so bit it was easy to find a place without tourists.

The reason I always mention areas without tourists is because of my interest in photography.  If you’re not a serious photography enthusiast you may be content to snap a few shots of the temples & Buddhas  even if the overweight western guy with the red “Same Same but Different” shirt in your shot but I am not.  It doesn’t bother me if people are sharing the tourist attraction with me as I can wait to get a shot without them in it, but it does bother me if there are so many tourists that getting a shot without any people is impossible.

Other than a few instances of large tourist groups and fellow photographers with their tripods at sunset, I was able to get all the shots I wanted weather permitting.   Sukhothai Historical Park is a fabulous location for any photographer and anyone interested in history.

Sun Setting Behind one of the many temples in Sukhothai Historical Park

Getting Around in Sukhothai

You can get around Sukhothai and the historical park on foot, bicycle or motorcycle.  I opted for taking my scooter I rented from the hotel.  In order to take the scooter into the park there is another fee of 20 baht which didn’t bother me.  There are numerous bicycle rental places very close to the entrance of the park which you can see when driving from the town.

Your main “problem” with going to Sukhothai is going to be deciding your mode of transport around the park.  If you would like to spend all day in the park, and like to move around at a leisurely pace a bicycle would probably be your best option.  You can either ride it to the park from your hotel/guesthouse if it is nearby or take a form of public transportation to the bicycle rental places close to the park.

I personally opted to take my motorbike in the park because I wanted to try to get numerous shots from different vantage points during sunrise and sunset.  The motorbike allowed me to go from one temple at the beginning of sunset to another shortly after sunset.  While this is not the best method for getting the best photo possible, it allowed me to get more photos in my couple days there.

Overall Impression

Sukhothai was exactly what I expected.  It was the average small Thai town with historical park and of course temples, waterfalls, nature treks, caves and more in the various areas surrounding it like most of Thailand.  Unlike the newer shiny gold temples of Bangkok and other part of Thailand you can really sense the history in the temples around Sukhothai.

Anyone staying in Thailand for an extended period of time should plan a trip to Sukhothai .  I would say 2-3 days in Sukhothai would be sufficient for 99% of travelers.  In addition to the Sukhothai Historical Park the nearby Si Satchanalai Historical Park is another must-do for anyone who travels to Sukhothai.

Read Part II:  Places to Visit from Sukhothai – Si Satchanalai Historical Park

For More Photos from Sukhothai and all around the World Visit:

If you missed the first post about Bhumibol Bridge you may want to read it as it gives a little background information about the bridge and talks about the view you get from the central Bangkok side of the Chao Phraya River.  I got a couple good shots from one side of the bridge but I wasn’t satisfied.  I could see there were some buildings on the other side of the first section of the bridge and I had seen a couple photos on Flickr from that location.

Getting to Phra Pradaeng

I couldn’t figure out whether or not the bridge had a pedestrian path to cross the bridge on foot or bicycle so instead of chancing it, I found a taxi driver near the Ambassador Hotel and told him I’d give him 500 baht ($15USD) to take me there and back.  Since I really had no idea where we were going I went to an internet café and showed them on a map where I wanted to go and they wrote it in Thai to show the taxi driver.

I was aiming to get some night shots of the bridge so I set out around 17:00 with the hope of getting to the bridge by sunset but the inevitable happened.  The traffic on Rama III & IV roads was at a standstill and it took over and hour and 15 minutes to go a distance that would have taken 15-20 minutes if there was no traffic.

The taxi driver knew how to drive to the bridge and get to the genera area under the bridge but he parked in a lot which was probably almost a kilometer away from the recreational area.  He accompanied me to the shooting location to not lose me and most importantly for him, the 500 baht fare.

Park looking towards Samut Prakan

Under the Industrial Ring Road

From back home in the USA when I think under a bridge or a major highway in a big city the first thing that comes to mind is a ghetto or industrial wasteland.  As mentioned previously in Bangkok it is completely opposite as there are many nice areas under Bangkok’s various bridges.

The park which to this day I cannot remember nor find out the name of, is very nice.  In the area near Bhumibol Bridge on this Phra Pradaeng side there is rather long paved jogging path along with numerous playgrounds for kids.  Directly below the coiling Industrial Ring road at the base of Bhumibol Bridge there is a nice grass park with rubberized jogging path and basketball courts.

The park surrounded by a fence and a security guard box has a couple buildings and statue laden pools.  I do not know what the buildings are, possibly a museum or school.  The industrial ring road along with its pillars is spectacular to photography in itself as it winds all over the place giving a photographer with a wide angle lens more than enough shots.

Jogging Path under the Industrial Ring Road

Bhumibol Bridge Photos

The prize of course is the beautiful Bhumibol Bridge views in which there are multiple angles as you are able to see in both spans of the bridge.   You can even walk outside the park and explore the more of the area which includes a large temple and several shipyards to get more views of the bridge and industrial ring road.

I saw several Thai photographers when I visited this are of Phra Pradaeng but no foreigners.  I would highly recommend this area of Bangkok for anyone with a digital SLR and especially those who like shooting wide angle shots as there is more than a couple hours worth of shots.  I would recommend leaving early so you can get there in time for the sun to set as it can be spectacular like the day when I was lucky enough to get this shot.

View the full Bhumibol Bridge Photo Archive

My hometown of San Francisco is city where tens of thousands of tourists arrive to see a bridge so I thought I would write about a bridge in Bangkok that is visually impressive and grand but just doesn’t have much tourist appeal yet.

Bridge is not a huge tourist attraction in Bangkok for a couple reasons.   First off, the bridge is located pretty far away from the areas populated by foreigners and crowded with tourists.  The 2^nd reason why it’s not the most popular tourist attraction is it lacks pedestrian crossings.

Bhumibol Bridge is located towards the south side of Bangkok off Rama III Road.  In order to drive across the bridge there is a very long onramp.  Bhumibol Bridge is pronounced;  “Sa pan Poo Me Pon” in Thai in which Saphan means ‘bridge’ in Thai and Bhumibol  is the name of the King of Thailand, Bhumibol Ayedeyej.

The bridge which was completed less than 5 years ago in 2006 is also known as the “Mega Bridge” or “Industrial Ring Road Bridge” but don’t expect a single Thai person to know what you are talking about unless you say it in Thai, again “Saphan Bhumibol”.

Vantage Points of the Bridge

I have found  2 different vantage points on the North side of the Chao Phraya.  The first is a jogging park which lies directly under the bridge.  I have found that many bridges in Bangkok actually have nice parks or what could be described as recreational areas under them.  This ‘recreational area’ under the bridge has a jogging path, a grassy area and a cement step seating area overlooking the river which is where I got this shot.

Under Bhumibol Bridge

The second vantage point of Bhumibol Bridge off Rama III road is at the end of Rama III Soi 34.  The first time I went there I was kind of hesitant to enter as the soi looked more like a school as it had a security guard and many stray dogs.  It turned out there were many stray dogs because there was a couple large monasteries and what I think is a school.  As you walk towards the end of the soi there is actually a stable with cows ran by monks.  Right at the end of the soi is the cement steps which make up the bank of the Chao Phraya River which you can see in this shot.

Bhumibol Bridge from the End of Rama III Soi 34

Getting to Bhumibol Bridge

The bridge is gigantic and has 2 major sections crossing the Chao Phraya River so there are many vantage points which I scouted out over several trips to the bridge.  The easiest part to get to for anyone living in the major parts of Bangkok Sukhumvit and Silom is from Rama III road.

The first time I tried to find Bhumibol Bridge I took my bicycle through Silom in the wrong direction.  The actual directions will vary greatly depending on the starting point so the general guideline is just to get on Rama III road which loops around Bangkok .

I’m not sure if there are any MRT stations that go anywhere near the bridge but I’m sure there are no BTS stations.  The best way is to ask a taxi driver to take you to Rama III Soi 34 which is also within walking distance to the recreational area.  From anywhere in the vicinity you will be able to see “The Pano” the giant apartment complex which towers over the entire area.

Bhumibol Bridge highlighted Pink

Shooting Photos of Bhumibol Bridge

The Rama III Soi 34 side of the bridge allows you to get some great panoramic vantage points of the brightly lit bridge and its coiling attached Industrial Ring Road highway.  From this vantage point you can almost view 4 of the brightly lit pillars of the bridge.

I’m not 100% sure of this but I think there is an array of different patterns of light which can be emitted by the bridge.  Out of the few times I have been over to Bhumbol Bridge to take photos, the latest the bridge’s lights have been turned on is 19:00.  Any serious photographer will have more than enough subject matter for a good couple hours of shooting from both locations at the end of Rama III Soi 34 as well as the recreation area under the bridge.

View More Photos of Bhumibol Bridge at tourismPICS.com

Stay Tuned for Part II: Phra Padaeng Side of Bhumibol Bridge

The “New” Airport Link

It seems for the longest time Bangkok’s airport link train was “coming soon.” I think I remember the elevated tracks coming from the airport the first time I visited Bangkok around 5 years ago. I had been living in Bangkok for over a year and with seemingly little fanfare the airport link finally opened.

For me the airport link was more of a curiosity than a necessity as taking a taxi to the airport will usually cost from about $8-15USD and be relatively fast.. I wanted to take it the next time I either arrived or departed Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi
airport but I arrived from the US which usually means around midnight which is the time the airport link closed.

Bangkok Airport Link Station - Asok

Same Same but Different

The above headline is a popular shirt sold in Thailand and oddly enough it applies to the way to get to BKK airport. While the mode of transit is obviously different, the primary factor which determines how long it takes to get to the airport is likely going to be the same.

The primary factor is how bad the Bangkok city traffic is. Just as taking a taxi all the way to the airport must navigate through the busy streets to find an expressway, if you want to take the airport link your taxi needs to find a station. There are only 2 airport link stations located in central Bangkok, one at the intersection of Asok and Petchaburi roads and the other in Phaya Thai.

Pick Your Train: Express or City Line

Once you arrive at the station which is spacious and aesthetically similar to the airport’s terminals you will have to find the ticket booth. There were a couple guides on duty which helped a lot as they pointed me in the right direction. From the Asok station I was at, the city line which I assumed stopped at a couple stations along the way took 30 minutes while the non-stop express line took 15.

I picked up a 100 baht express train ticket at the counter you see in the photo and it caused me to literally make the train at the last split second as they re-opened the doors to let me in after they were ready to leave.

Just in Time for Express Train

Airport Link Express Train Ride & Drop-off

The 8:30am train I was on was virtually empty. As you would expect from a brand new train system, the train was very clean, comfortable, smooth and of course very fast. There is really nothing much to say about the actual train ride but you can watch the video showing how fast the Bangkok airport link train is.

Another downside of taking the Bangkok airport express train is the drop-off point. While a taxi drops you off conveniently a hundred meters or so in front of the check-in departure area, the Bangkok Airport Link train drops you off in the bowels of Suvarnabhumi
. You have to either take an elevator which will likely be 100% filled to capacity or navigate through the next couple floors which includes the arrivals rushing past you the opposite way trying to get out of the airport.

Bangkok Airport Link Summary: Pros & Cons

Positive aspects of the Bangkok Airport Link

• Fast
• Comfortable
• Quiet
• Reliable

Negative aspects of the Bangkok Airport Link

• Only a couple of stations
• Takes time to navigate the Airport Link station
• Drops you off 4 floors down from check-in

Overall Impression

Like the mag-lev train which goes to and fro the airport in Shanghai the Bangkok Airport Link is not entirely convenient with the exception being those staying within walking distance to a station. If you are staying far away from one of the stations, the cab ride to the station is going to take up the bulk of your time.

The cost for the airport link is definitely cheaper than just a taxi as you have to pay the meter plus any fees (if you are coming from the airport) and tollway fees. Overall I would say it’s a toss up. If you are close to a BKK Airport Link station then by all means take the 15 minute express train but if your hotel/apartment is closer to a tollway entrance, it would make sense to avoid any of the crippling Bangkok traffic as the tollways are less likely to have gridlock.

Back to a Point and Shoot

Okay, I didn’t sell my Nikon D700 Digital SLR and thousands of dollars worth of camera equipment and go back to shooting point and shoot cameras.  I was actually trying to cheat time lapse movies with my camcorder and the nightmares of dealing with that caused me to find an easy way out.  While I was searching online to solve my problems I saw a video on youtube of a tilt-shift time lapse which really was simply a trick from a Canon point-and-shoot camera’s video mode.

In addition to having the cool video mode I have heard so much lately about the Canon Powershot S95 I really had to check it out.  Not taking the bulky digital SLR and camera bag had been a recurring thing when walking around Bangkok and I missed so many shots because of it.  I figured to kill 2 birds with one stone so to speak and try out a handy point and shoot that fits in any pocket.

A Face-off with what I usually Shoot with & the S95

Buying the Canon S95 in Bangkok

The choice was not easy as there were numerous attractive cameras for sale including the brand new Canon PowerShot G12 a level up from the S95.  I tried the G12 out and thought it was fabulous.  Everything from the controls to the performance were excellent.  What impressed me with the most was the close focusing as it could focus on something like my finger from a couple cm away and the photo had a perfect sharp view of my finger print.  I read that the G12 was basically the S95 with a better lens and more advanced body but when it came down to it, the G12 was just too bulky.  I already have a SLR why would I get a bulky point and shoot?

There was also the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5 which boasts Leica components and is the same camera as the $800 Leica D-Lux 5.  What attracted me to this camera was the maximum wide angle (24mm) which was 4mm wider than both Canons (28mm).  What turned me off from the Panasonic was the size and the lens cap.  It was almost small enough to fit in your pocket but a little too wide.  A lens cap on a point-and-shoot is completely stupid, just something else to lose and an annoyance every time you turn it on to get a shot.  I have read and assume the Panasonic Lumix LX5 along with the Leica D Lux 5 take great photos, but again in a point-and-shoot camera pocketability is my #1 priority especially since I own an SLR and a host of lenses.

I saw on Amazon and most online retailers the S95 selling for $399.99 so I set off in Bangkok seeing if I could get a deal.  I guess the camera’s popularity allowed the stores to jack up the price because the cheapest I could find it for was 12300 baht ($411 USD).  I bought it at a new AV center which is the place I have confidence in finding all the cheapest camera equipment in Bangkok although this AV center was not in Pantip Plaza but in MBK where I found myself to be shopping for a business print shop.

One of the first 10 shots I took with the S95 after I bought at MBK

S95 First Impressions:  Things I like Immediately Liked

Besides the still cam on my old Canon HG10 HD camcorder the S95 was the first new point-and-shoot camera I have bought in at least 6 years.  I really have nothing to recent or in it’s place  to compare it to except my D700 incidentally which costs almost 10x more with a lens.  Even though I have shot with a digital SLR exclusively for the last 16 months I was still impressed by the Canon S95.  I already knew this one but I liked the size as it fit nicely in my front pocket.

As you can see by my most popular photos (according to Flickr) I love night cityscape shots.  I managed to take the photo above using the camera’s manual settings which allowed me to use an exposure of up to 15 seconds while using an aperture of f8.  I was really impressed with the ability for the S95 to take low light shots.  I also really like the menus and special effects the camera offers.  I basically bought it for the gimmicky miniature time lapse videos and still shots.

S95 First Impressions:  Things I Do Not Like

Even great cameras have faults and while it may be due to people being  nitpicky or spoiled the S95 has a few faults for me.   First and foremost is the lack of control in most of the specialty modes.  The specialty modes (SCN on camera dial) are great but many of them are in the auto-modes which do not allow changes such as exposure compensation, colors, white balance, etc.  This limits what you can create with the camera although you can use software later to edit them later.

Another thing I don’t like is the tiny mode dial on the top right of the camera.  There is very little to grip when you turn it and any sweat or grease on your hands will make it a pain to turn.  I know it is like that to conserve space and limit things protruding from the camera but it seems like it could be better.  The last thing I don’t like is the battery.  First of all it doesn’t pack too much power.  Canon says it can take 200 shots but I find that 10-15 minutes of video eats the battery life significantly.  In addition to being rather weak, the battery is perfectly rectangular and can fit in the compartment all 4 ways.  This is slightly annoying as it takes a couple seconds to figure out how to put it in.

Overall Impression

I like the S95 a lot.  I was buying it specifically to test for this blog and do a fake time lapse video (posted below) but after taking some shots I have fallen in love with the ability to pop the camera out of my pocket and be shooting within seconds without drawing attention to myself.  Do I see myself hiking to the top of a mountain to get a beautiful landscape shot of a lifetime with the S95, no.  I will still use my D700 for night cityscapes, landscapes, and anything in which I know I will be shooting a lot of photos but I my S95 will definitely be in my pocket when I’m out and about.  Stay Tuned as I took some test shots w/ the Nikon D700, Nikon N90 film camera and the S95 to compare low light photos.

Coming Soon:  Night Image Quality Comparison between Nikon D700, Nikon N90 film camera and Canon S95

Pick your Location

I had watched Muay Thai at both of the 2 primary Muay Thai stadiums in Bangkok when I had visited for the first time over 5 years ago.  I remember having a great time at Lumpini (often spelled Lumpinee) Stadium which had exciting fights and even a Muay Boran demonstration.  Muay Boran (Muay means ‘boxing’ & boran means ‘ancient’) is the ancient style of Thai boxing in which competitors wore ropes around their fists instead of gloves.  I also remember my night of Muay Thai at Rajadamnern stadium not being as fun so obviously I wanted to go to Lumpini Stadium.

It turns out picking the location to watch Muay Thai in Bangkok really depends on the day you wish to view it.  Lumpini Stadium has the fights on Tuesday, Fridays and Saturdays while Rajadamnern stadium holds the Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Sunday fights.  On a side note, there are also Wednesday night Muay Thai which is free, often has women fights and is located at the MBK shopping center.  The major stadiums do not have women fights and women are not even permitted in the ring.

2 Girls Duking it Out at MBK's Muay Thai Fight Night

Getting There & Buying Tickets

I knew that Lumini Stadium had the fights on Friday night so I planned to go there after my trip to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho I planned to take a taxi all the way from the old section of Bangkok to Silom during rush hour to catch the Muay Thai event that started at 6pm.  I told the taxi driver to take me to “Sanam Lumpini” (sanam means ‘stadium in Thai) and he told me there was no boxing there that night and I would have to go to Rajadamnern Stadium which was very close to the Grand Palace where I had just been.

I thought the driver had a commission arrangement w/ Rajadamnern Stadium or something so I continued to argue until I realized that it was Thurdsay and not Friday.  The taxi drivers are usually more than happy to take you to a Muay Thai event which suggest they get a commission.  Most farang (Caucasian foreigners in Thai) are offered the front row seats at a price of 2000 baht ($60 USD).  I had planned to sit as close as possible to get some photos with my Nikon D700 and assorted lenses so paying for the “better” seats was no problem.

Orono Wor Petchpun - Famous Muay Thai Great

The Event

It turns out that the ringside seats were not really great at all for taking photos as every shot had the ring ropes in the way.  You can view on the slideshow on the bottom of this post.   Rajadamnern Stadium has 3 main levels of seating (refer to the photo at the top of the post).  The floor level has seats mostly foreigners, boxes for the judges and standing room for the fighter’s crew.  The secondary level of seating has mostly Thai people from what I saw.  This is where the people place bets on each fight with hand signals like the New York Stock Exchange.  Then there is a top row of seating which is inside a chain linked fence.

One side of the 2nd level is completely devoid of people as it holds the TV cameras.  Other than being able to put the camera through the ring ropes, like the paid event photographers, this middle section which is elevated over the ring ropes would probably be the best place to take photos.  I am not sure how much it costs or even if non-gambling foreigners are allowed.  The event had mostly young kids with the exception of  a Muay Thai boxer I had heard of by the name of Orono Wor Petchpun (Muay Thai fighter’s last names are actually the names of their gym) who is one of Thailand’s best boxers.  He has 2 KO wins over the great Yodsanklai Fairtex and 2 decision wins over the K1-Max  international superstar Buakaw Por. Pramuk.  Check out this YouTube clip with him in action.

To me, most of the fights were pretty boring.  I remember the first time I went to Lumpini Stadium the fights were all exciting which makes me want to go back there and check it out again.  Not a single fight had a KO and there was a LOT of clinching.  I’m not sure what the exact rules are or how to score the fights, but it seemed that clinching and throwing was happening more than striking.  The event got lively for what I believe was the main event.

The championship fight pitting what appeared to be a couple 13 year-olds got lively when both entered the stadium with their entourages.  One was dressed with a pointy medal hat (see in slide show) while the other had a whole “hype crew” of a painted face guy, a huge fat guy waving a flag and of course, a Chinese-style dragon dancer!  The crowd was especially rambunctious for this fight but it ended with one being crowned champion, and of course, like all the other fights that night, I had no idea who was going to win the judges decision.

Scenes from the Championship Fight

Overall Impression

While I didn’t have the best time at this Thursday night event at Rajadamnern Stadium I still would highly recommend anyone who is visiting Thailand to check out a night of fights.  Like I stated before, I remember having a better experience at Lumpini Stadium but any place you watch Muay Thai in Thailand you will see a different side of Thai people.  People who are generally reserved and quiet are going crazy in a raucous crowd which had a few scuffles amongst fans likely over gambling.

For tourists, also keep in mind that Rajadamnern Stadium is very close to Khao San Road, Wat Arun, Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, some of Thailand’s major tourist attractions.  For those who live in Thailand and have never been to Muay Thai it is worth going as well.  I would be willing to bet a night of the real championships would be a very fun night to attend Muay Thai fights at Rajadamnern Stadium.  For those who don’t care to see fighting and especially don’t want to pay 2000 baht to do so, head to MBK shopping center on Wednesday evenings and you can see what Muay Thai is all about for free.

The 3 Headed Elephant

I saw photos on Flickr of amazing looking interiors and I had to check it out.   It turns out the Viriyaphant family, the same family responsible for creating The Ancient City (Ancient Siam) created the Erawan Museum.   Erawan is the Thai name for the Airavata which is a white elephant who carries the Hindu god Indra.  Upon arriving the unique appearance of the museum is apparent.

Exterior of the Erawan Museum

Getting to the Erawan Museum

The Erawan Museum is technically not located in the city or province of Bangkok but it is very close.  Like Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) the Erawan Museum is located in Samut Prakan which is right next to Bangkok.  It is actually located right off Sukhumvit Road.  I hailed a taxi from my apartment at Sukhumvit Soi 13 and he charged me 200 baht ($6USD) plus 40 baht ($1.20 USD) for the expressway toll to get to the Erawan Museum but this is not the best way.

The best way for anyone to get to the Erawan Museum is to take the BTS as far east as possible (currently On Nut Station) then hail a cab from there as the Sukhumvit Road traffic is almost always completely congested in greater Bangkok.  On the way back from Samut Prakan which was around 30 minutes with good traffic the driver actually used the meter which totaled to be around 170 baht.  Just like going anywhere in Bangkok, if you want to spend the least amount of money, make sure you only get in a cab once they agree to use the meter.

Traditional Thai Dancers performing in front of Erawan Museum

Exploring In & Around the Erawan Museum

The museum is only a portion of the experience you will get when going there.  Assuming you are “politely dressed” i.e. no tank tops, shorts, bikini tops or minskirts you pay the entrance fee of 150 baht ($4.50 USD) and are allowed to roam freely in the large gated area which amounts to a nice garden and park with a couple temples and more.  I chose to go directly in the museum to see if it was free of people for some good photos.  Upon entering the main museum I was ushered to the bottom where I was told no photos and entered the air-conditioned basement museum.  This basement museum had mostly old Chinese and Thai pottery as well as a bunch of information.  I spent around 15 minutes walking around looking then I decided to go into the main museum.

After taking off my shoes I walked into the main museum which was a site to behold (see photo at top of post).  It is difficult to describe but one word that comes to mind is breathtaking.  There are many various sculptures and staircases which are a work of art themselves (you can see more of the sights in the slideshow at the bottom of this post).  The main hall was not air conditioned so after taking my fair share of photos I made my way to the top of the stairs where I found the (air conditioned) spiral staircase which leads up to the belly of the elephant.

Spiral Staircase Leading up to the Top Floor (Inside the Elephant)

Up to the Belly of the Beast

After climbing several flights of the spiral stairs (note:   There is a also an elevator) I made it to the top room and WOW.  The room was shaped as an beautifully painted arc which surrounded by several encased Buddhas.  The Buddhas had no photo signs so I didn’t take any shots of them.  I had a chance to take a bunch of photos as the occasional tourist or Thai would come up to pray to the main Buddha.  I literally stayed in this air conditioned room for 30 minutes shooting photos and just absorbing the ambiance.

The Final Room at the End of the Spiral Staircase

Overall Impression

I thought the Erawan Museum was Awesome with a capital A.  I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Bangkok.  Erawan Museum was not at all crowded and I only saw one other western tourist there.  The visitors seemed to mostly be Thai and Chinese.  Every square inch of the museum is a site to see and once you exit there are plenty of other attractions including a temple with an Indian monk w/ dozens of doves, the aforementioned Thai dancers and I even got a chance to use my new Nikon 105mm Macro Lens to take photos of flowers, insects, birds and a frog.

If your time in Bangkok is limited, it is good to know that Erawan Museum is located within a few kilometers of Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) which is definitely a few hours worth of your time as well.  Plan a good day excursion from Bangkok and arrive at the Erawan Museum around 9-10 spend an hour or 2 there then procede to Ancient Siam for another 2-3 hours and you just had a good day of tourism to immerse yourself in the Thai culture.

Finally Inside the Grand Palace

Hopefully you already read Part I:  Getting to the Grand Palace.  At the main ticket entrance there is a guard and a bunch more people who are independent tour guides.  I had an older gentleman approach me who spoke English very well.   He asked for 300 baht ($9 USD) for around an hour tour which I took his offer.    I forgot his real name but he told me to call him, “Captain.”
Captain showed me the changing room for those who didn’t come “politely” dressed where you can buy clothes and get changed. I happened to have just bought a pair of long pants on Sukhumvit Road before I left so I had to change. After changing I proceeded to the ticket gate and paid the rather expensive (for Thailand) 350 baht ($11.30 USD) entrance fee.

Map of the Grand Palace (click to enlarge)

Touring the Grand Palace

I highly recommend getting a guide as Captain made everything a little easier as well interesting as had a extremely rich knowledge of everything in the palace.  I was there primarily for taking photos but Captain was very patient as I would stop and take photos while he was talking.

Taking photos in the palace was often times challenging due to the amount of tourists who were there posing for pictures.  I went on a weekday so I would assume it would be even more crowded on the weekends.  After entering the palace (scene at top of post) we walked around and Captain told me about the history of everything and a lot of information that I already forgot.

The first attraction was the actual temple (which I believe) the whole palace was built around named Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.   On the way to Wat Phra Kaew my guide told me about all the various temples and where the designs originated.  I was surprised to hear that many styles of structures were given to Thailand from places such as Cambodia and China.  There was even a large scale model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

The actual Temple of the Emerald Buddha was the only place where photography was prohibited.  I took the picture of the emerald Buddha (below) from outside the main area which like all other worshiping areas required you to take off the shoes.   Wat Phra Kaew was pretty standard as far as temples in Thailand go.  It was surrounded with hundreds of gold statues.

The Emerald Buddha

Moving from Buddhism to the Monarchy

After filling my mind with a bunch of knowledge and camera with plenty photos I moved away from Wat Phra Kaew towards the south of the Grand Palace grounds.  The south part of the Grand Palace grounds contained Thai government and royal administrative buildings as well as the former residence of the King and the guest quarters.

I got a kick out of the guide’s story of the guest quarters when he told me the list of the guests who have stayed there which included a bunch of royals and oddly enough Bill Clinton.  I could only imagine how Bill Clinton would spend his night in Grand Palace guest residence.  After hearing taking some photos of the impeccable landscaping and buildings my attention was grabbed by the sounds of marching boots.

Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall

Changing of the Guard

I had taken a few photos of the guards before but I got lucky as it was time for the changing of the guard.  I missed a shot of the changing of the guard in the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Temple in Taipei so it was time to redeem myself.  The soldiers who looked as if they were all under 18 did the changing of the guard ceremony and it turned out to be a perfect end to my visit to the Grand Palace.  This section of the Grand Palace  was not as interesting as the Buddhist temple and monument section but it was a good place for people to take photos.

Changing of the Guard at the Grand Palace

Overall Impression

Not too long ago I was told by a fellow expat living in Thailand that the Grand Palace was overrated and I would agree with that sentiment.  I am definitely NOT saying it isn’t worth going to but for the price (100 baht cab ride, 350 baht entrance, 300 baht guide) it simply isn’t very much more impressive than other temples or buildings throughout Thailand.  The fact that they can charge 350 baht for admission really tells you a lot about how popular the Grand Palace is as a tourist attraction though.  I saw just as many Thais there as foreigners.   Again, I would highly recommend hiring a guide for your Grand Palace experience.  If you’re that cheap you can even bargain with the tour guides near the changing room.  I’m glad after 16 months of living in Bangkok I finally made it to the Grand Palace but I would consider it a great place to get started for anyone visiting Bangkok and Thailand.

If you plan to make it to the Grand Palace be sure not to miss Wat Pho which is one of the oldest and most impressive temples in Bangkok and is located directly behind the Grand Palace.

Wat Pho – Coming Soon

The Grand Palace

Thailand is a popular tourism destination for many reasons one being the predominantly Buddhist Thai culture which is apparent in every nook and cranny of the country.  Arguably the center of Thai culture in the whole country of Thailand lies in the Grand Palace which in old part of Bangkok.

Most first time visitors to Bangkok will see the Grand Palace at one point of their visit especially if a visit is included in a guided tour of Bangkok as any guided tour will include the crown jewel of Bangkok’s tourist attractions.

The Grand Palace is a section of land that not only holds several famous Buddhas and temples but also is the center of the Royal Thai monarchy.  As I quickly learned from my guide and the pamphlet I was given for purchasing a ticket, the Grand Palace is not just a Buddhist temple.

Without getting into too much detail about the history of the Grand Palace which you sure to learn upon your visit, the Grand Palace consists of everything from administrative buildings to the former residence of the King to Buddhist monuments as well as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

On the Outside Looking in: The Grand Palace at Night

Essential Information:  Before you Go

Entrance Fee: 350 baht

Last Ticket Sold: 3:30pm (15:30) you can remain in the Palace after 3:30pm but you must buy your ticket before then.

“Polite Dress required’: This means long pants for men and no tanktops.  Women are expected to dress rather conservatively with means extremely short shorts and miniskirts are out.

Close attractions: If you make your way to the Grand Palace you may want to plan ahead and visit the adjacent Wat Pho and Wat Arun across the river.  If you’re not staying there, Khao San Road is very close as well.

Getting to the Grand Palace

For the countless first time visitors of Bangkok who stay near the infamous backpacker’s ghetto Khao San Road, getting to the Grand Palace is as simple as a 15 minute walk or a quick tuk tuk ride.  For those who are staying in the newer areas of Bangkok (Silom & Sukhumvit) getting to the Grand Palace will not only take longer.  For anyone staying away from Khao San Road there are 2 primary ways to get to the Grand Palace.

1.  The Scenic Route

Primarily for people who are visiting Bangkok as a tourist, the scenic route is recommended as it will allow them to see more of Bangkok.  The scenic route involves a trip on the BTS Sky Train.  Catch the underground (MRT) or BTS and make your way to the Saphan Thaksin station.  Directly under the station is an obvious path towards the Chao Phraya River where there is a river taxi station.  Buy the cheap  (15 baht?) ticket and board the boat which will slowly progress North on the Chao Phraya until station N13 is reached.  Once the station is reached the Grand Palace is close enough to walk to or take a quick  taxi or tuk tuk ride to.

2.  Taxi

Taking a taxi can be the either the quickest or slowest way to get to places.  Bangkok’s traffic will determine how long it takes to get there.  My journey from my Sukhumvit Soi 13 apartment took around 40 minutes because of the traffic.  If you decide to take a taxi there make sure you know the name of the main temple of the Grand Palace as telling the driver “Grand Palace” will often result in blank stares.  If you mention the primary temple ‘Wat phra Kaew’ the driver will almost certainly know where you want to go, but once you mention it be aware of the following:

Grand Palace Rip – Offs

Since the Grand Palace is probably Bangkok’s most popular tourist attraction the likelihood of dealing with scam artists is high.  Regardless of where you are hailing the taxi, BEFORE YOU GET IN, make sure he (would put he/she but I have never seen a woman taxi driver) turns on the meter.  If they request any amount of money, decline and move on to the next taxi which will likely be directly behind the one you are talking to followed by another, and another, and another.

A common scam amongst taxi drivers (especially those who congregate in “tourist” areas) is telling people, “The Grand Palace is closed.”  Unaware tourists will take their word for it and the taxi driver will take them on a commissionable tour of various (mostly Indian owned) highly overpriced tailors, “Thai export factories” aka fake souvenir & jewelry shops and more.  In short, get the taxi driver to turn on the meter before you get in and you will get to the location but you still need to be aware of the same scam once you get there.  If you plan to visit Bangkok or live there and are concerned about scams BangkokScams.com will be a helpful site for you.

Part II:  Touring the Grand Palace

Bangkok’s Best Kept Secret?

I happened to be looking at an apartment on Sathorn 3, Suan Plu Soi 8 one night when I walked past a unique food stall/restaurant.  Outside from the main dining area was a food stall with 2 pans with wonderful looking, sizzling steaks.  The minute I saw the steaks I new I had to try this place so I sat down and ordered.

After a few minutes I received my steak flambe’ and was immediately impressed by the presentation as well as the aroma.  I was hooked after the first bite as the meat was tender and delicious while the sauce was extraordinary.  After I finished the best steak I’ve had in Bangkok I asked for the “Check Bin” (check bill in Thai) and I was amazed that the price was only 150 baht!  ($4.63 USD).

I knew there was something fishy about this particular place to eat in Bangkok because I noticed the chef was paying incredible attention to detail while preparing the food.  I started talking with chef Sanjorn (or John).  It turns out Sanjorn is a current/former chef at the Sukhothai which is one of the swankiest 5-star hotels in all of Thailand!  He is an incredibly nice guy who is more than willing to tell you everything about his food as well as practice his English while you practice your Thai.

Sanjorn Cooking on Suan Plu Soi 8

Sanjorn Cookshop’s Location

Although the area is out of the way for most foreigners it is a great neighborhood.  I remembered vividly how much I liked the neighborhood because it was where the old Thai immigration center was.   In addition to the many food stalls on Thanon Suan Plu, there is a wonderful outdoor food market right at the beginning of the soi.  It is easy to see the area is close to a major university as there are uniformed students everywhere.

The actual location of Sanjorn Cookshop is on Sathorn (Thai: สาทร) or Sathon 3, Suan Plu Soi 8.  It is 4 shops down on the left hand side where you will see the outside cooking area and the inside dining area.  It is relatively close to both Sala Daeng BTS, and Lumpini & Silom MRT stations but I take my bicycle there.  It takes me around 20 minutes via bicycle to get to Sanjorn Cookshop from my apartment at Sukhumvit Soi 13.

The Food & Menu

The steak is what I order almost every time I head to Sanjorn Cookhouse.  Each time the steak meal  has subtle differences based on what’s available and so far everything has been absolutely delicious.  The menu is hardly limited to steak as the other menu items which include everything from salmon, to fish, to pork to traditional Thai dishes look amazing.  The best part is everything on the menu is affordable.  I have had food at restaurants in Bangkok that cost several times more than John’s food but the taste pales in comparison.

My Favorite Steak in Bangkok for 150 baht

Some more of the Amazing Menu Items for less than 200 baht at Sanjorn Cookshop

Overall Impression

When dining out at a place for the first time I can immediately categorize the place into one of 3 categories:  1.  Will never eat at again, 2.  Will possibly eat at again and 3.  I’m coming back tomorrow and Sanjorn Cookshop easily fit in the number 3 category.  The chef John is a very nice guy who can provide a lot of information about the food he prepares.

John’s experience and abilities as a chef are likely in the top 1% of Bangkok restaurants and he offers his tasty creations for a fraction of the price that it would cost elsewhere.  Since the price is so affordable I look at Sanjorn as an affordable “personal chef.”  Even though the location is “out of the way” to most foreigners living in Bangkok, it is a breath of fresh air with mostly Thai people, some cool shops, markets and of course my favorite place to eat in Bangkok, Sanjorn Cookshop.

http://web.me.com/garycollier1/Sanjorn/Welcome.html