I actually had a flight booked from Bangkok but I missed it when I decided to fly to Chiang Mai for their Yi Peng Lantern Festival instead.  Since I was not in a rush, instead of booking a flight from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai I decided to take the 5 hour air conditioned bus ride.  Buses from Bangkok are also available but it takes much longer than 5 hours.

Some Content coming sooon

Once you arrive in Sukhothai you will most likely want to take a bus or taxi into the town but you can also stay at accommodations which exist near the airport.  The reason you could want to stay near the airport is because it is located in between Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Historical parks.  Since Sukhothai historical park was more appealing to me I decided to stay closer to it.

Where to Stay in Sukhothai

I actually made paid a reservation for a hotel on Sawadee.com for a hotel which was close to the airport.   Immediately upon arrival to the bus station I was approached by touts for J&J guest house who told me the hotel I booked was away from Sukhothai so I stupidly followed their advice and went to J&J guest house which was in the new Sukhothai town.

While J&J Guesthouse was a pretty nice set of Bungalows along a river I was awaken by bed bugs so I decided to change hotels the next day.  I switched to Pailyn Hotel which seemed to be the largest hotel in Sukhothai and was a lot closer to the Historical Park which is where I would be spending most of my time.

I noticed some guest houses a bit closer to the historical park so if you’re into that style of accommodations you may want to look into it.  If you want to stay in a legit hotel with all the standard amenities then Pailyn Hotel is probably the best place to stay in Sukhothai if the historical park is your prime interest.

Things to Do:  Sukhothai Historical Park

Sukhothai is not Bangkok.  Most people who decide to go to Sukhothai are going there to visit the 2 historical parks.  Sukhothai Historical Park is a very large park which has numerous sections.  There is an admission for each section of 50 baht.  The park was a very peaceful and quiet place the time I went (End of November).  There was a fair amount of tourists but the park was so bit it was easy to find a place without tourists.

The reason I always mention areas without tourists is because of my interest in photography.  If you’re not a serious photography enthusiast you may be content to snap a few shots of the temples & Buddhas  even if the overweight western guy with the red “Same Same but Different” shirt in your shot but I am not.  It doesn’t bother me if people are sharing the tourist attraction with me as I can wait to get a shot without them in it, but it does bother me if there are so many tourists that getting a shot without any people is impossible.

Other than a few instances of large tourist groups and fellow photographers with their tripods at sunset, I was able to get all the shots I wanted weather permitting.   Sukhothai Historical Park is a fabulous location for any photographer and anyone interested in history.

Sun Setting Behind one of the many temples in Sukhothai Historical Park

Getting Around in Sukhothai

You can get around Sukhothai and the historical park on foot, bicycle or motorcycle.  I opted for taking my scooter I rented from the hotel.  In order to take the scooter into the park there is another fee of 20 baht which didn’t bother me.  There are numerous bicycle rental places very close to the entrance of the park which you can see when driving from the town.

Your main “problem” with going to Sukhothai is going to be deciding your mode of transport around the park.  If you would like to spend all day in the park, and like to move around at a leisurely pace a bicycle would probably be your best option.  You can either ride it to the park from your hotel/guesthouse if it is nearby or take a form of public transportation to the bicycle rental places close to the park.

I personally opted to take my motorbike in the park because I wanted to try to get numerous shots from different vantage points during sunrise and sunset.  The motorbike allowed me to go from one temple at the beginning of sunset to another shortly after sunset.  While this is not the best method for getting the best photo possible, it allowed me to get more photos in my couple days there.

Overall Impression

Sukhothai was exactly what I expected.  It was the average small Thai town with historical park and of course temples, waterfalls, nature treks, caves and more in the various areas surrounding it like most of Thailand.  Unlike the newer shiny gold temples of Bangkok and other part of Thailand you can really sense the history in the temples around Sukhothai.

Anyone staying in Thailand for an extended period of time should plan a trip to Sukhothai .  I would say 2-3 days in Sukhothai would be sufficient for 99% of travelers.  In addition to the Sukhothai Historical Park the nearby Si Satchanalai Historical Park is another must-do for anyone who travels to Sukhothai.

Read Part II:  Places to Visit from Sukhothai – Si Satchanalai Historical Park

For More Photos from Sukhothai and all around the World Visit:

Bridge is not a huge tourist attraction in Bangkok for a couple reasons.   First off, the bridge is located pretty far away from the areas populated by foreigners and crowded with tourists.  The 2^nd reason why it’s not the most popular tourist attraction is it lacks pedestrian crossings.

Bhumibol Bridge is located towards the south side of Bangkok off Rama III Road.  In order to drive across the bridge there is a very long onramp.  Bhumibol Bridge is pronounced;  “Sa pan Poo Me Pon” in Thai in which Saphan means ‘bridge’ in Thai and Bhumibol  is the name of the King of Thailand, Bhumibol Ayedeyej.

The bridge which was completed less than 5 years ago in 2006 is also known as the “Mega Bridge” or “Industrial Ring Road Bridge” but don’t expect a single Thai person to know what you are talking about unless you say it in Thai, again “Saphan Bhumibol”.

Vantage Points of the Bridge

I have found  2 different vantage points on the North side of the Chao Phraya.  The first is a jogging park which lies directly under the bridge.  I have found that many bridges in Bangkok actually have nice parks or what could be described as recreational areas under them.  This ‘recreational area’ under the bridge has a jogging path, a grassy area and a cement step seating area overlooking the river which is where I got this shot.

Under Bhumibol Bridge

The second vantage point of Bhumibol Bridge off Rama III road is at the end of Rama III Soi 34.  The first time I went there I was kind of hesitant to enter as the soi looked more like a school as it had a security guard and many stray dogs.  It turned out there were many stray dogs because there was a couple large monasteries and what I think is a school.  As you walk towards the end of the soi there is actually a stable with cows ran by monks.  Right at the end of the soi is the cement steps which make up the bank of the Chao Phraya River which you can see in this shot.

Bhumibol Bridge from the End of Rama III Soi 34

Getting to Bhumibol Bridge

The bridge is gigantic and has 2 major sections crossing the Chao Phraya River so there are many vantage points which I scouted out over several trips to the bridge.  The easiest part to get to for anyone living in the major parts of Bangkok Sukhumvit and Silom is from Rama III road.

The first time I tried to find Bhumibol Bridge I took my bicycle through Silom in the wrong direction.  The actual directions will vary greatly depending on the starting point so the general guideline is just to get on Rama III road which loops around Bangkok .

I’m not sure if there are any MRT stations that go anywhere near the bridge but I’m sure there are no BTS stations.  The best way is to ask a taxi driver to take you to Rama III Soi 34 which is also within walking distance to the recreational area.  From anywhere in the vicinity you will be able to see “The Pano” the giant apartment complex which towers over the entire area.

Bhumibol Bridge highlighted Pink

Shooting Photos of Bhumibol Bridge

The Rama III Soi 34 side of the bridge allows you to get some great panoramic vantage points of the brightly lit bridge and its coiling attached Industrial Ring Road highway.  From this vantage point you can almost view 4 of the brightly lit pillars of the bridge.

I’m not 100% sure of this but I think there is an array of different patterns of light which can be emitted by the bridge.  Out of the few times I have been over to Bhumbol Bridge to take photos, the latest the bridge’s lights have been turned on is 19:00.  Any serious photographer will have more than enough subject matter for a good couple hours of shooting from both locations at the end of Rama III Soi 34 as well as the recreation area under the bridge.

View More Photos of Bhumibol Bridge at tourismPICS.com

Stay Tuned for Part II: Phra Padaeng Side of Bhumibol Bridge

I saw photos on Flickr of amazing looking interiors and I had to check it out.   It turns out the Viriyaphant family, the same family responsible for creating The Ancient City (Ancient Siam) created the Erawan Museum.   Erawan is the Thai name for the Airavata which is a white elephant who carries the Hindu god Indra.  Upon arriving the unique appearance of the museum is apparent.

Exterior of the Erawan Museum

Getting to the Erawan Museum

The Erawan Museum is technically not located in the city or province of Bangkok but it is very close.  Like Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) the Erawan Museum is located in Samut Prakan which is right next to Bangkok.  It is actually located right off Sukhumvit Road.  I hailed a taxi from my apartment at Sukhumvit Soi 13 and he charged me 200 baht ($6USD) plus 40 baht ($1.20 USD) for the expressway toll to get to the Erawan Museum but this is not the best way.

The best way for anyone to get to the Erawan Museum is to take the BTS as far east as possible (currently On Nut Station) then hail a cab from there as the Sukhumvit Road traffic is almost always completely congested in greater Bangkok.  On the way back from Samut Prakan which was around 30 minutes with good traffic the driver actually used the meter which totaled to be around 170 baht.  Just like going anywhere in Bangkok, if you want to spend the least amount of money, make sure you only get in a cab once they agree to use the meter.

Traditional Thai Dancers performing in front of Erawan Museum

Exploring In & Around the Erawan Museum

The museum is only a portion of the experience you will get when going there.  Assuming you are “politely dressed” i.e. no tank tops, shorts, bikini tops or minskirts you pay the entrance fee of 150 baht ($4.50 USD) and are allowed to roam freely in the large gated area which amounts to a nice garden and park with a couple temples and more.  I chose to go directly in the museum to see if it was free of people for some good photos.  Upon entering the main museum I was ushered to the bottom where I was told no photos and entered the air-conditioned basement museum.  This basement museum had mostly old Chinese and Thai pottery as well as a bunch of information.  I spent around 15 minutes walking around looking then I decided to go into the main museum.

After taking off my shoes I walked into the main museum which was a site to behold (see photo at top of post).  It is difficult to describe but one word that comes to mind is breathtaking.  There are many various sculptures and staircases which are a work of art themselves (you can see more of the sights in the slideshow at the bottom of this post).  The main hall was not air conditioned so after taking my fair share of photos I made my way to the top of the stairs where I found the (air conditioned) spiral staircase which leads up to the belly of the elephant.

Spiral Staircase Leading up to the Top Floor (Inside the Elephant)

Up to the Belly of the Beast

After climbing several flights of the spiral stairs (note:   There is a also an elevator) I made it to the top room and WOW.  The room was shaped as an beautifully painted arc which surrounded by several encased Buddhas.  The Buddhas had no photo signs so I didn’t take any shots of them.  I had a chance to take a bunch of photos as the occasional tourist or Thai would come up to pray to the main Buddha.  I literally stayed in this air conditioned room for 30 minutes shooting photos and just absorbing the ambiance.

The Final Room at the End of the Spiral Staircase

Overall Impression

I thought the Erawan Museum was Awesome with a capital A.  I highly recommend it to anyone visiting Bangkok.  Erawan Museum was not at all crowded and I only saw one other western tourist there.  The visitors seemed to mostly be Thai and Chinese.  Every square inch of the museum is a site to see and once you exit there are plenty of other attractions including a temple with an Indian monk w/ dozens of doves, the aforementioned Thai dancers and I even got a chance to use my new Nikon 105mm Macro Lens to take photos of flowers, insects, birds and a frog.

If your time in Bangkok is limited, it is good to know that Erawan Museum is located within a few kilometers of Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) which is definitely a few hours worth of your time as well.  Plan a good day excursion from Bangkok and arrive at the Erawan Museum around 9-10 spend an hour or 2 there then procede to Ancient Siam for another 2-3 hours and you just had a good day of tourism to immerse yourself in the Thai culture.

Hopefully you already read Part I:  Getting to the Grand Palace.  At the main ticket entrance there is a guard and a bunch more people who are independent tour guides.  I had an older gentleman approach me who spoke English very well.   He asked for 300 baht ($9 USD) for around an hour tour which I took his offer.    I forgot his real name but he told me to call him, “Captain.”
Captain showed me the changing room for those who didn’t come “politely” dressed where you can buy clothes and get changed. I happened to have just bought a pair of long pants on Sukhumvit Road before I left so I had to change. After changing I proceeded to the ticket gate and paid the rather expensive (for Thailand) 350 baht ($11.30 USD) entrance fee.

Map of the Grand Palace (click to enlarge)

Touring the Grand Palace

I highly recommend getting a guide as Captain made everything a little easier as well interesting as had a extremely rich knowledge of everything in the palace.  I was there primarily for taking photos but Captain was very patient as I would stop and take photos while he was talking.

Taking photos in the palace was often times challenging due to the amount of tourists who were there posing for pictures.  I went on a weekday so I would assume it would be even more crowded on the weekends.  After entering the palace (scene at top of post) we walked around and Captain told me about the history of everything and a lot of information that I already forgot.

The first attraction was the actual temple (which I believe) the whole palace was built around named Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.   On the way to Wat Phra Kaew my guide told me about all the various temples and where the designs originated.  I was surprised to hear that many styles of structures were given to Thailand from places such as Cambodia and China.  There was even a large scale model of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

The actual Temple of the Emerald Buddha was the only place where photography was prohibited.  I took the picture of the emerald Buddha (below) from outside the main area which like all other worshiping areas required you to take off the shoes.   Wat Phra Kaew was pretty standard as far as temples in Thailand go.  It was surrounded with hundreds of gold statues.

The Emerald Buddha

Moving from Buddhism to the Monarchy

After filling my mind with a bunch of knowledge and camera with plenty photos I moved away from Wat Phra Kaew towards the south of the Grand Palace grounds.  The south part of the Grand Palace grounds contained Thai government and royal administrative buildings as well as the former residence of the King and the guest quarters.

I got a kick out of the guide’s story of the guest quarters when he told me the list of the guests who have stayed there which included a bunch of royals and oddly enough Bill Clinton.  I could only imagine how Bill Clinton would spend his night in Grand Palace guest residence.  After hearing taking some photos of the impeccable landscaping and buildings my attention was grabbed by the sounds of marching boots.

Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall

Changing of the Guard

I had taken a few photos of the guards before but I got lucky as it was time for the changing of the guard.  I missed a shot of the changing of the guard in the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Temple in Taipei so it was time to redeem myself.  The soldiers who looked as if they were all under 18 did the changing of the guard ceremony and it turned out to be a perfect end to my visit to the Grand Palace.  This section of the Grand Palace  was not as interesting as the Buddhist temple and monument section but it was a good place for people to take photos.

Changing of the Guard at the Grand Palace

Overall Impression

Not too long ago I was told by a fellow expat living in Thailand that the Grand Palace was overrated and I would agree with that sentiment.  I am definitely NOT saying it isn’t worth going to but for the price (100 baht cab ride, 350 baht entrance, 300 baht guide) it simply isn’t very much more impressive than other temples or buildings throughout Thailand.  The fact that they can charge 350 baht for admission really tells you a lot about how popular the Grand Palace is as a tourist attraction though.  I saw just as many Thais there as foreigners.   Again, I would highly recommend hiring a guide for your Grand Palace experience.  If you’re that cheap you can even bargain with the tour guides near the changing room.  I’m glad after 16 months of living in Bangkok I finally made it to the Grand Palace but I would consider it a great place to get started for anyone visiting Bangkok and Thailand.

If you plan to make it to the Grand Palace be sure not to miss Wat Pho which is one of the oldest and most impressive temples in Bangkok and is located directly behind the Grand Palace.

Wat Pho – Coming Soon

Thailand is a popular tourism destination for many reasons one being the predominantly Buddhist Thai culture which is apparent in every nook and cranny of the country.  Arguably the center of Thai culture in the whole country of Thailand lies in the Grand Palace which in old part of Bangkok.

Most first time visitors to Bangkok will see the Grand Palace at one point of their visit especially if a visit is included in a guided tour of Bangkok as any guided tour will include the crown jewel of Bangkok’s tourist attractions.

The Grand Palace is a section of land that not only holds several famous Buddhas and temples but also is the center of the Royal Thai monarchy.  As I quickly learned from my guide and the pamphlet I was given for purchasing a ticket, the Grand Palace is not just a Buddhist temple.

Without getting into too much detail about the history of the Grand Palace which you sure to learn upon your visit, the Grand Palace consists of everything from administrative buildings to the former residence of the King to Buddhist monuments as well as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

On the Outside Looking in: The Grand Palace at Night

Essential Information:  Before you Go

Entrance Fee: 350 baht

Last Ticket Sold: 3:30pm (15:30) you can remain in the Palace after 3:30pm but you must buy your ticket before then.

“Polite Dress required’: This means long pants for men and no tanktops.  Women are expected to dress rather conservatively with means extremely short shorts and miniskirts are out.

Close attractions: If you make your way to the Grand Palace you may want to plan ahead and visit the adjacent Wat Pho and Wat Arun across the river.  If you’re not staying there, Khao San Road is very close as well.

Getting to the Grand Palace

For the countless first time visitors of Bangkok who stay near the infamous backpacker’s ghetto Khao San Road, getting to the Grand Palace is as simple as a 15 minute walk or a quick tuk tuk ride.  For those who are staying in the newer areas of Bangkok (Silom & Sukhumvit) getting to the Grand Palace will not only take longer.  For anyone staying away from Khao San Road there are 2 primary ways to get to the Grand Palace.

1.  The Scenic Route

Primarily for people who are visiting Bangkok as a tourist, the scenic route is recommended as it will allow them to see more of Bangkok.  The scenic route involves a trip on the BTS Sky Train.  Catch the underground (MRT) or BTS and make your way to the Saphan Thaksin station.  Directly under the station is an obvious path towards the Chao Phraya River where there is a river taxi station.  Buy the cheap  (15 baht?) ticket and board the boat which will slowly progress North on the Chao Phraya until station N13 is reached.  Once the station is reached the Grand Palace is close enough to walk to or take a quick  taxi or tuk tuk ride to.

2.  Taxi

Taking a taxi can be the either the quickest or slowest way to get to places.  Bangkok’s traffic will determine how long it takes to get there.  My journey from my Sukhumvit Soi 13 apartment took around 40 minutes because of the traffic.  If you decide to take a taxi there make sure you know the name of the main temple of the Grand Palace as telling the driver “Grand Palace” will often result in blank stares.  If you mention the primary temple ‘Wat phra Kaew’ the driver will almost certainly know where you want to go, but once you mention it be aware of the following:

Grand Palace Rip – Offs

Since the Grand Palace is probably Bangkok’s most popular tourist attraction the likelihood of dealing with scam artists is high.  Regardless of where you are hailing the taxi, BEFORE YOU GET IN, make sure he (would put he/she but I have never seen a woman taxi driver) turns on the meter.  If they request any amount of money, decline and move on to the next taxi which will likely be directly behind the one you are talking to followed by another, and another, and another.

A common scam amongst taxi drivers (especially those who congregate in “tourist” areas) is telling people, “The Grand Palace is closed.”  Unaware tourists will take their word for it and the taxi driver will take them on a commissionable tour of various (mostly Indian owned) highly overpriced tailors, “Thai export factories” aka fake souvenir & jewelry shops and more.  In short, get the taxi driver to turn on the meter before you get in and you will get to the location but you still need to be aware of the same scam once you get there.  If you plan to visit Bangkok or live there and are concerned about scams BangkokScams.com will be a helpful site for you.

Part II:  Touring the Grand Palace

Ancient Siam is also known as Ancient City to anyone who speaks English.  In Thai it is called Muang Boran.  According to the Ancient Siam brochure you receive on arrival, “Ancient Siam is an excellent reflection of Thailand’s multi-faceted ancient culture presented in an authentic and visually exciting setting.”

From some of the information I read about Ancient Siam, it was originally going to be a miniature golf course.  What Ancient Siam is today is basically an outdoor museum set on a plot of over 200 acres shaped like the country of Thailand (see map below).  Ancient Siam contains 116 ‘artifacts’ of Thailand’s culture.

The ‘artifacts’ range from everything from a simple small statue, to giant Buddhas, to the aforementioned floating market to giant temples which you can walk in.  Each ‘artifact’ has a sign with a description printed in English and Thai.  According to the free map given at the ticket purchase each ‘artifact’ is either real, taken from the real site for reconstruction, duplicated from an original in Thailand or a creative design built specifically for the Ancient City.

Ancient Siam Map (Click to Enlarge)

Getting to Ancient Siam from Bangkok

Ancient Siam is located in Samut Prakan province, between 30-40km from Bangkok depending on where you depart from.  You can get there by bus by taking the air-conditioned bus #511 (Pinklao-Paknam) to the end of the line and from there, taking the mini-bus #36 which passes the entrance of Ancient Siam.

If you take a taxi as I did, be prepared to negotiate.  Make sure you negotiate the price for the fare before you get in the cab. Even if the driver starts the meter, and you tell him Muang Boran he will likely try to overcharge you.  Make sure you get a return trip as well as the driver will be more than happy to sleep in his car while you’re in the park for 1, 2 or even 3+ hours.

When negotiating, keep in mind that the trip is about as far as a trip to the airport.  There will also be a tollway fee of 45 baht ($1.39 USD) each way.  I ended up paying 800 baht ($24.68 USD) total for the round trip having the driver pay the highway tolls.  I feel I may have overpaid a bit, so you may want to offer a couple hundred less and try to get the round trip for around 600 baht ($18.51 USD).

How long the trip takes depends on your taxi driver and above all traffic.  When I went, around 1:30pm, returning around 5:30pm it took me around an hour each way which I though was not bad considering there were few of those Bangtkok moments when your car is stopped motionless for minutes at a time.

Ticket & Transportation

Like I mentioned, Ancient Siam is no miniature golf course.  The overall area is 200 acres so walking in the sweltering heat is probably the last thing you want to do.  Aside from walking there are 4 primary options of transportation within the park;  1.  You can pay a fee to allow your private vehicle or taxi driver to drive through the park; 2.  You can get on a tram with a group for a guided tour; 3.  You can rent a bicycle which I saw hundreds available for rent; and 4.  You can rent an electric powered golf cart with either 2 or 4 (possibly more) seats.

I chose to rent a golf cart which cost 100 baht ($3.08 USD) per hour.  After I bought the admission ticket which cost 350 baht ($10.80 USD), renting the golf cart from the booth right outside the air conditioned ticket office took about a minute.  There seemed to be a shortage of golf carts although I could be mistaken.  I was there on a Wednesday afternoon, so if you go on the weekend, you may want to prepare to wait for a golf cart, use one of the guided tours or rent a bicycle.

The golf cart was perfect for me because I put my my camera bag in the passenger seat and lazily drive around sipping multi-colored Fantas while shooting photos with my Nikon D700 and  my Nikon Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 VR telephoto lens .

Getting around the Ancient City's Nice Wide Roads via GOlf Cart

Overview of Ancient City & More Information

Muang Boran had an interesting variety of sites.  While some were replicas of actual temples, or the actual ‘refurbished’ temples others were pretty cheesy “creative designs.”  While some of the sites seemed pretty authentic, compared to sites you will see traveling all around Thailand, others such as Sumeru Mountain (pictured below) seemed right out of an amusement park.

Besides just looking at things, there are also things to do such as the floating market, a deer farm and possibly more things I didn’t see.   Look to spend at least 2 hours just sight seeing at Ancient City.  If you want to get out of your golf cart, and check out the various temples and the floating market you could spend 3-4 hours there easily.  There is plenty of places to get drinks, snacks and food.  The park closes at or around 5pm so going early is the best option which will let you avoid the extreme heat and humidity as well.

Sumeru Mountain

Overall Impression

I enjoyed the 2 hours I spent touring Ancient Siam.  While my focus was less about learning the culture about the 116 ‘artifacts’ of the Ancient City the time I spent there I felt “busy” without long periods of nothing to do.  When I was thirsty it was easy to find something cold to drink, and I stayed cool from the breeze while driving the golf cart.

While to some, especially people who have traveled extensively throughout Thailand, Ancient Siam may seem like a cheesy “canned tour” others will consider Ancient Siam as a cultural experience.  I would highly recommend Muang Boran, the Ancient City to anyone who is spending a limited time in Thailand, specifically in Bangkok as it will give them a decent look into Thai culture and history.  I would recommend Ancient Siam to photographers who want to get some shots, but to hardened “templers” or other people who travel far and wide just to see yet another temple, I would only slightly recommend Ancient Siam.

The overall cost for me, including ticket, golf cart rental and transportation was 1300 baht ($40 USD) may be a little high for a budget traveler traveling alone but going in a group will slash the cost a lot.  I probably wouldn’t go back to Ancient Siam but I think for anyone in Bangkok for a few days, especially those who don’t have the time to travel around in Thailand, to spend an afternoon exploring the Ancient City.

There is no airport on Koh Phangan.  There are many travelers whose only time spent in Koh Samui is to wait for a Koh Phangan bound ferry at Big Buddha pier which is very close to the airport.  There are other points of embarkation to Koh Phangan including points along mainland Thailand but the easiest for most people is to fly into Samui Airport and book the ferry.

There are a couple different companies offering a trip from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan so it is important you know their schedules according to your itineraries.  I took a standard boat with what seemed to be a hundred or so fellow travelers on it.  It was the standard island transport boat which had indoor and outdoor seating, a small snack bar and bathroom facilities.  The trip from Samui to Phangan takes around 30 minutes unless you book a private speedboat which costs a ridiculous 7000+ baht.

Big Buddha Pier in Koh Samui (Big Buddha at the edge of Land in center of Photo)

Arriving in Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan Map (Click to Enlarge)

There are a few different piers on each island in which you can get from Samui to Phangan and vice versa.  I took the ferry from Big Buddha pier to Thong Sala pier which is in the center of Phangan.

Upon arrival you will no doubt see non-stop reminders of what Koh Phangan is famous for.  There are signs advertising the full moon and associated parties everywhere.  It is nothing like Koh Samui’s over development induced signage overload but you will notice them even in Thong Sala which is about an hour drive away from Haad Rin Nok beach on Southeastern Phangan which is the home of the infamous Full Moon Party.

After arriving on Thong Sala pier there are beautiful deserted beaches and fishing boats to the right and the town is directly in front.  There is nowhere to get lost as if you walk straight you will see numerous stores.

You have several transportation options after your arrival.  I saw many young travelers who I assume were on their way to Haad Rin the town/beach of the Full Moon Party getting in the back of ‘sawng teeo’ which are pick-up trucks converted to taxis with 2 benches lining their bed.

I had planned to rent a scooter/motorcycle and I rented one from the first vendor I saw.  She charged me 200 baht ($6USD per day) all I had to do is hand over my passport, pay her the 200 baht and I was off.  I initially planned to head back to Koh Samui because I still had all my stuff except for camera at my bungalow there.  I knew Koh Phangan had only a handful of main roads so I set off looking to explore the island but had no idea how long it would take or what was in store for me.

Thong Sala Beach (Directly to the right of Thong Sala Pier Upon Arrival)

Exploring Koh Phangan

I really didn’t have an itinerary on Koh Phangan.  I knew the island was small and I could just ride around on my scooter and explore various towns, mountains and of course beaches.  My exploration of Koh Phangan got off to a good start as I took a road to the northeast which lead me to the Chinese mountain temple on my way to one of the northern beaches.  The road seemed brand new and I was able to zip across the island.

Once I got to the north end of the island to the small fishing village there were a few small dirt roads which I decided not to take on my Honda scooter.  To this day I’m not sure whether the roads lead somewhere or just to someone’s house.  According to the maps there are non-paved roads that lead to the northern beaches but I figured there was a lot more to explore so I left and headed back south.

Once I drove back South I came to a familiar intersection.  Rather than going back to Thong Sala I decided to head northeast as I was pretty much just randomly driving.  The northeast road suddenly changed from paved highway to one of the worst dirt roads I’ve ever driven on.  The road was flat on probably 10% of it as it had grooves in it from a likely mixture of motorcycle traffic and rain water.

Beach on Northeast end of Koh Phangan

I almost crashed my scooter half a dozen times even though I was driving cautiously.  I consider myself lucky for not crashing, that’s how bad the roads were.  The dry loose dirt along with the multiple grooves in the road were a major problem going down the steep hills. Through the mountains on the way to the coast the roads would become paved for short stretches then back to the horrible dirt roads.

A great thing about traveling on Thailand’s islands is the small villages which often have restaurants.  I would usually stop and get food at these villages.  I stopped at one with a kid practicing Muay Thai in a full ring next to a dining area overlooking cliffs as well as one with a massage setup overlooking the beautiful beaches and landscapes of Koh Phangan (pictured below).   Like most of Thailand the people were extremely friendly but it seemed the people on Phangan were even friendlier!  I usually ordered fried rice as it’s pretty much impossible to get sick from eating it.

I finally got to the beach I had traveled the dangerous roads to get to.  The area I reached was an amazing looking crescent beach which was enveloped with dense forest.  There was another beach to the Northeast.   The area was very quiet and family/couple oriented so I decided I wanted to go to Haad Rin to spend the night.  I still had some light so I decided to brave the horrific roads in the darkening skies to get to an area with more options.

Get a Massage after Eating some of the Local Cuisine all over Phangan

Haad Rin Pier after Sunset in Koh Phangan

I ended up getting to to Haad Rin just after sunset.  I drove around and found the town remarkably similar to the infamous backpacker’s ghetto Khaosan Road in Bangkok.  It was like a whole town of Khaosan road with tons of backpackers, tourists along with shops and of course 7-elevens.  I thought it was pretty cool but instead of going out and partying I ended up getting exhausted so I had to find a hotel where I ended up crashing without getting to sample Haad Rin’s infamous night life.

Places to Stay in Haad Rin Koh Phangan, Thailand:  DROP IN CLUB RESORT & SPA - Coming Soon

Things to Do on Koh Phangan

Full Moon Party

If you are interested in the Full Moon party or any of its offshoots such as the Half Moon Party or Black Moon party you should check out their official website:  FullMoonParty-Thailand.com There are numerous websites online completely devoted to killing your brain cells in mass quantities, enjoy!

Haad Rin - One of the Most Developed Areas on Koh Phangan

Beach & Water Activities

Anyone headed to a tropical island should not be surprised to find beach and water activities and Koh Phangan is no exception.  There are many beaches and all the water anyone could want and more.  Most beaches I saw on Phangan were not very crowded with the exception of Haad Rin Beach the scene of the full moon party.  All water activities from snorkeling to jet skiing to fishing are available as well and are best booked ahead.

Exploring

Riding a motorcycle or scooter on Koh Phangan is an adventure in itself.  While some roads are in perfect condition, calling others “roads” to begin with is doing them too much justice.  If you want to explore every inch of Phangan I would recommend recommend renting a dirt bike rather than a normal scooter.  I saw numerous couples having difficult climbing up hills in their low powered scooters.  I had enough trouble navigating the pot holed roads on a scooter by myself during dry season I couldn’t imagine trying to get around on a scooter when the mud/clay roads are wet, in addition to impossible it is likely extremely dangerous.

Elephant Trekking

Since most of Kho Phangan is covered with dense mountainous jungle, on the back of an elephant is the best way to explore some of it.  I saw a few elephant stables one which was near Kuan Yin Shrine almost caused me to get in a wreck because there was a stray horse in the middle of the road.

Hiking

Like Samui, there are numerous “waterfalls” on Kho Phangan.  If you arrive in the dry season expect those waterfalls to be less than a trickle if there is any water at all.  There are plenty of places to hike on Phangan which are best accessed with a group.  There are numerous beaches which have few if any roads which are only accessible by hiking or boat.  If you like hiking, plan ahead, get a tour guide and you can find it on Phangan.

Chinese Temple

The Kuan Yin Shrine is a Chinese mountain temple.  It is located rather close to Thong Sala town and pier and is easily accessible and impossible to miss on one of the main, high quality roads of Koh Phangan.  View more Photos of Thailand’s Island Temples on tourismPICS.com

Kuan Yin Shrine a Chinese Temple in Koh Phangan

Leaving Koh Phangan

The options for leaving Koh Phangan involve taking a boat to the coast of Thailand’s mainland or to another island.  Since I had all my belongings at Koh Samui I had fewer choices.  I hastily returned my scooter to the vendor which was literally 50 meters across from the ticket booths only to find the boat back to Big Buddha Pier on Samui didn’t leave for another 5 hours!

The bad news wasn’t so bad at all because it gave me another 5 hours on the island which allowed me to explore the main roads I missed the day before and a waterfall which included a hike to a viewpoint which I was able to get some of the following Koh Phangan photos.

View more Photos from Koh Phangan at tourismPICS.com

Leaving Koh Phangan

Overall Impression

I had no intention of going to Koh Phangan’s Full Moon, Half Moon or Black Moon Parties.  The reason I traveled to the Thai islands in the first place was to relax and while it was relatively difficult to relax on Koh Samui, Koh Phangan had a lot more quiet and peaceful places to relax and most importantly didn’t have the buzzing circular traffic 24 hours a day.

I loved Koh Phangan.  On Koh Phangan there were dozens of kilometers of beautiful white sand beaches with less than a dozen people on them.  That is my idea of a tropical paradise and that is exactly what I consider Koh Phangan.  It really has just enough of everything without going overboard.  Yes the infamous Full Moon parties are crazy but that is such a small percentage of the island.

I was only on Koh Phangan for around 24 hours which in no way does it justice.  There is so much to do, so much to explore on Koh Phangan the next time I go back I will definitely spend at least a week there.  I would recommend any travelers who want to relax on a tropical island, go hiking, elephant trekking, swimming, snorkeling, beach bumming to their heart’s content to spend at least a week on Phangan.

Even if your soul goal is to party like a rock star and have a wild night on Haad Rin beach’s Full Moon Party you can still explore the entire island in a week or simply relax on a secluded beach with your friends during the day and that includes nursing your hangover.  I just can’t say enough positive things about Koh Phangan a great relaxing place which is definitely on the list of places I will return to in the near future.

Old Hut overlooking Yet Another white sand Koh Phangan Beach

View more Photos from Koh Phangan at tourismPICS.com

If you’re at all familiar with the geography of Thailand you may already know that often times it’s not as simple as simply booking a flight, landing, getting to the hotel and lounging on the beach.  Some of Thailand’s islands have only a few thousand if any inhabitants while others are almost completely developed.

Koh Samui happens to be one of the 3 largest islands along with the Phuket and Koh Chang.  While Koh Chang doesn’t have an airport and requires a ferry from the mainland’s Trat airport Phuket and Koh Samui both have an airport but with the airport at Koh Samui there is a catch.

The airport on Koh Samui was built by Bangkok Airways which for a long time was the sole airline occupying the airport.  Times have changed and now Thai Airways has a couple flights in and out of Samui along with a couple tiny airlines but if you plan to head to Samui you’re probably going to be flying Bangkok Airways.

This is not to say Bangkok Airways, “Asia’s Boutique Airline” is not good but it does limit your options especially if you pay attention to airfare.  Due to the obvious lack of competition Bangkok Airways can charge a few extra baht for each flight.  I was flying from Singapore so I paid what I thought was a lot more than a typical domestic flight in Thailand.

Bangkok Airways Plane Flying over Big Buddha Pier on Koh Samui

Getting Situated on Koh Samui

I picked a bungalow which was the very cheapest accommodations for Koh Samui on Hotels.com which was located in Mae Nam Beach which was supposed to be one of the quieter areas on Koh Samui.  Upon arrival I went to the one and only counter for taxi and was quoted 600 baht ($18 USD) for a ride to my bungalow.

I pretty much knew I was paying way too much for a cab or one of those pickup truck style cabs with 2 rows of seats in the back but I wasn’t in the mood for inconveniencing myself so I just plunked down the 600 baht and in 15 minutes I was at my hotel.  If you arrive to Samui Airport and don’t want to spend 600 baht to get to your bungalow make sure you plan your transport in advance.

Places to Stay on Koh Samui Thailand, Bungalow – Coming Soon

Koh Samui Island

My Koh Samui experience was quite different than what I expected.  I was under the impression that Koh Samui was a quiet and peaceful island which wasn’t overdeveloped like Phuket, Hawaii or other popular tourist islands but Samui was just that.  I specifically avoided Koh Phangan because I thought it was going to be covered with drunk teenagers attending full moon parties and overcrowded roads but that is exactly what Koh Samui was like.

I rented a Honda Scooter (moped?) from the Bungalow for 250 baht ($7.50 USD) which was overpaying and began to drive around Koh Samui.  When I say drive around It’s not a figure of speech.  The main road of Koh Samui is a 2-way 2-4 lane road that goes in a circle around the entire island.  My hotel manager said it takes from 45-60 minutes to go around the whole island.

There are many interior roads, the ones I drove on were all paved and in very good condition (note the exception pictured below) as opposed to what I read which said they were all bad.  The huge problem with getting around via scooter on Koh Samui is the absolutely ridiculous sign overload.  I’m not exaggerating when I say after you see the sign of the place you are trying to get to, you will see 20-50 signs before your turn.

In addition to being really annoying this showed some serious overdevelopment of Koh Samui’s coast and beaches.  Most of the beaches were either crowded tourist beaches like the two most popular Chaweng and Lamai or smaller beaches lined with resorts.

Typical Beach Scene Surrounding Koh Samui

Things to do on Koh Samui

If you don’t plan on driving around in circles like I did you should probably plan your things-to-do itinerary before you set out.  Even if you plan it out, make sure you have a general idea of how far you need to go so you don’t get confused by the sign overload.  At the very least, if you are driving yourself, drive very slowly on the far side of the road to be able to see where you want to go.

Beach Bum it

If being on the beach and in the water is your thing there is no shortage of it on Koh Samui.  You will no doubt be sharing it with hundreds of Western tourists but there is an abundance of water activities from surfing to snorkeling to jet skiing.  While 90% of anyone visiting a tropical island wants to take advantage of this, alternative activities are important for if you get bored or get that likely bad sunburn.

Grandmother and Grandfather Rock

Tourist attraction rock formations which resemble human genitalia are not entirely unusual (See Halong Bay, Vietnam) but Koh Samui has its own version.  I didn’t get a chance to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock mostly because I was caught up in the turbulent traffic swirl and missed the sign.  I didn’t get a chance to take my own photos but I got the idea from other people’s photos.  If you want to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock you’re in luck because it’s very close to Lamai Beach one of Koh Samui’s 2 most popular beach and areas.

Grandfather & Grandmother Rocks

“Templing”

Not that Koh Samui is the best place in Thailand to visit Buddhist temples and shrines but there are a fair share.  The most popular temple to visit in Koh Samui is the Big Buddha, located very close to Big Buddha Pier which is the primary embarkation point for Koh Phangan and other nearby islands.  There are various small shrines and temples on the island which I didn’t get a chance to visit.  Another rather large temple which I happened to visit was Wat Nuan Naram which you can more on the following link.

Thai Island Temple Photos on tourismPICS.com.

Hiking & Trekking

I had this 1000+ meter peak behind the Bungalow that was beckoning me.  My plan was to hike it so I went to 7-Eleven and bought some Man Vs. Wild survival gear like a cigarette lighter, flashlight, small pocket knife as well as a fresh phone card for in case I got lost.

Little did I know the hills in Koh Samui are no joke.  My Man vs Wild survivor kit was sorely lacking mosquito repellent and in the first 30 seconds I had to stop after getting my leg sliced up by some cactus like plants, I had about 500 mosquitoes buzzing around the fresh meat.  Needless to say I wimped out and saved the hiking for another day.

There are many mountains on Koh Samui and many opportunities to hike them on foot, mountain bikes, ATVs and of course elephant back.  None of these activities are going to be something you will do on your own so if you are interested by hiking and trekking make sure you call one of the many groups and make plans.

Eat, Drink & Party

It is Koh Samui’s close neighbor island Koh Phangan is world renowned for its Full Moon Parties but there is no shortage of partying on Koh Samui.  Aside from the huge night club Green Mango in Chaweng which could be in any urban city center to there is a ton of night life venues mainly concentrated in Chaweng and Lamai beach areas but there are also smaller, low key spots throughout the island.

Party at Green Mango Night Club in Koh Samui

Leaving Koh Samui

I had a 6pm flight from Koh Samui back to Bangkok.  With check-out time being at 12pm it meant I had a few hours to kill.  I planned to write for this blog so I wanted an internet connection and most importantly air conditioning.  I was worried about getting stuck at the small Samui Airport for 6 hours but rather than lugging my big bag around I decided to bite the bullet and wait at the airport.

What I didn’t know was Samui’s airport had a very nice boutique-like row of shops and restaurants.  There was everything from a sports bar, to a professional massage studio to ice cream shops, coffee shops and eateries.

All were air conditioned and the coffee shop even had a free wireless internet connection with any purchase.  Needless to say I got some work done and consumed some delicious extra calories before I boarded my Bangkok Airways flight back to Bangkok.  If you have some extra time on Koh Samui I would recommend going to the airport early what you’re going to find there is likely better than anything else on the island!

Bangkok Airways Koh Samui Airport Shops & Restaurants

Overall Impression

I still have nightmares of all the signs in Koh Samui.  It bugged me to the end and it made getting around way more difficult than it should have been.  While I thought there were many beautiful sights on Koh Samui it wasn’t what I envision when I think of a tropical Island.  Of course it still is Thailand so it is still covered in nice, laid back people.

I had just came from Singapore so it was really easy for me to appreciate the Thailand cost of living as well although some things were priced for the tourist.  While I liked some parts about Koh Samui and would consider going back before I left, I probably would bypass Koh Samui next time and use it for Bangkok Airway’s “boutique” airport after visiting its less developed neighbor, Koh Phangan.

View the Complete Koh Samui Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Places to Visit from Bangkok, Thailand – Koh Phangan

One of the first things anyone who goes to Singapore will notice is East Coast Park simply because every form of transport leaving the airport drives by it on the way to the city.  It seemed very peaceful as you could see the aqua blue water and white sand beaches with a nearby canopy of tall trees.

East Coast Park was on my to do list as soon as I saw it but I purposely decided to wait until early the next week because I had a premonition of big weekend crowds.  I went on a Monday afternoon and the crowds were pretty tame.  My plans were to check out the beaches and go for a bicycle ride.

My primary objective was to get a good physical workout with a nice bike ride but I took some time to take some pictures and check out Singapore’s coast.  I inspected some of the many beaches in East Coast park and they ranged from small to medium sized white sand beaches to artificial jetty-like structures which showed that all the beaches were probably man made.

Cement on the Left - Beach on the Right - Singapore City in Background

Bicycle  Rental

I stupidly went to the first bike rental shop I saw which was right next to the eatery complex complete with McDonalds, Burger King a couple Chinese restaurants and more.  Without thinking I plucked down 10 Singapore dollars ($7 USD) and my ID (I used my California’s driver’s license) to get my bike.

Their “best bike” was a hybrid of some kind.  In the first 10 seconds I tried to ride it became evident that there was not a chance in hell I would make it more than a mile in this bike.  I’m used to nice bikes, not Lance Armstrong quality road bikes, but bikes that can ‘get on it.’  As I was riding down the bike path around 100 meters towards Changi Airport I saw another bike shop.

I went to the other bike shop and asked them what their best bike was.  They showed me a few nice hybrid bikes, road bikes and mountain bikes.  The higher end bikes cost a bit more, I chose a Cannondale hybrid which cost 20 Singapore dollars ($14.30 USD) but it was well worth it.  I immediately returned the crap bike to the first bike shop, without asking for a refund and was on my way.

Beachfront Bicycle Shop with Crappy Bikes

Bicycle Ride

Bike Path with Marked Pedestiran Crossing

The bike path was very nice and wide, free from potholes with more than enough signs to tell you everything you want to know.  There were red and white pedestrian crossings throughout as well.

This was my first time at East Coast park so I had no idea how far the bicycle path went but the plan was to go all the way to the airport.  I started riding and stopped a few times but ride as far as the path went.   East Coast Park actually ends in a few kilometers from the bike shop but there are numerous “connector” parks and other parks connected.  Yet again, a Singapore dot gov website details all the parks and connections.

I ended up riding all the way past Changi (Singapore International) airport to land’s end where there was a culdesac (pictured below).  Luckily for me or anyone who decides to go on this bike ride there are 3 or 4 little areas with shops and/or restaurants for refreshments and most importantly bottles of cold drinking water.

Interestingly, I noticed quite a few people which looked to be Malay from their head scars camping throughout the parks towards the end of the bike path.  I got some refreshments at the end of the path found an empty park bench and drank some fruit juice before I readied myself for the ride back.

End of the Road Land's End: Pasir Ris park

Overall Impression

On the way back the time was nearing 4pm and I could tell as the park was getting more crowded.  More bicyclists, rollerbladers and joggers were crowding the park which gave me the impression that it would be pretty crowded on the weekends.  Bicycling as far as I could figure out you could go from East Coast Park I could see dozens of empty small beaches.

East Coast Park is about as natural as you’re going to get on Singapore and anyone who wants to cool off in the calm aqua waters, relax on the beach, get physically active with bicycling, rollerblading, jogging, snorkeling East Park is worth a trip.  There is even a golf course and yes, Singapore’s First Cable Ski Park, and surely some surprises for a first time visitor.  I would recommend anyone who finds themselves in Singapore for an extended period of time, get a tube of sunblock, your favorite book and head to East Coast Park for a peaceful ocean breeze and a variety of physical activity if you choose to be active.

I saw Singapore Botanic Gardens in one of the Singapore tourist maps so I decided to check it out.  It is open every day from 5am until midnight and the admission is free with the exception of the National Orchid Garden within the park that charges 5 Singapore dollars ($3.57 USD).

I took a taxi to Singapore Botanic Gardens as there is currently no nearby MRT station.  There is an MRT station being built nearby which should be done some time in 2010.  You can get specific directions and information about Singapore Botanic Gardens on the official dot sg website like most of Singapore’s attractions have.

There are two main entrances to Singapore Botanic Gardens.  You can see the view from one of the entrances below (I apologize for not knowing the name).  Upon arrival and through the gate there was a square with some waterfalls, plants and of course a little cafe/restaurant.  I was very hungry at the time so I ordered some pasta and a salad which were both very good although overpriced a bit.  I remember the salad being especially delicious.  After I satisfied my hunger it was time to explore.

Entrance to Singapore Botanic Gardens, Restaurant & Food

Singapore Botanic Gardens

I thought I was going to a rose garden but it turned out Singapore Botanic Gardens is simply a large park.  Symphony Lake (photo at top of post) was one of the first things to see after eating at the cafe.  There was a small amphitheater on the lake as well as grassy hills with school classes on field trips.

Throughout Singapore Botanic Gardens there are little placards with information next to all the various plants, flowers and trees.  There was a large section under construction when I was there but I still had a chance to check out the National Orchid Garden.  After paying the 5 Singapore dollar admission there are numerous paths with various plants, waterfalls and art.

I spent a little over an hour in Singapore Botanic Gardens so I can hardly do it justice.  It would take a few hours to thoroughly explore the whole park so if you find yourself in Singapore and want to explore and/or relax, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a place than can occupy quite a bit of your time.

There are a few bathrooms throughout were really nice along with vending machines with cold refreshments.  PLEASE NOTE:  Always carry 1 Singapore dollar coins with you because very few vending machines in Singapore had working paper money slots and believe me, cold refreshments are a must have when you’re walking around directly on the equator.

Moss covered Planter in the National Orchid Garden

The Cool House

The Cool House was one of many things to see in Singapore Botanic Gardens but I single it out because it was so ‘cool’ at the time.  Not unlike the rest of my trip to Singapore as I was walking around packing 10 pounds of camera equipment I got extremely hot and sweaty.  I don’t know if it was me, all the plants, the hills or being directly on the equator, but it felt like I was deep in the Amazon rain forest jungle.

Out of nowhere I saw a sign for the Cool House.  I didn’t know if it was a cafe or some sort of exhibit and I soon found it was the latter.  The Cool House was a small, climate controlled greenhouse with a cool weather ecosystem.  It was only about 20 meters long but the cool misty controlled environment felt so nice that I just stayed in there for about 16 minutes.  Inside the Cool House was an assortment of plants as well as a running stream and waterfall.

Entrance to the Refreshing 'Cool House'

Overall Impression

Singapore Botanic Gardens is much more than what it sounds like.  Similar to Central Park in New York or Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a rather large city park with a multitude of things to do whether it is sitting down and relaxing, looking at flowers and plant life or playing a game of Frisbee with friends.

Singapore Botanic Gardens also has a lot of things to take pictures of for you photography lovers out there.  If you’re in Singapore on a rushed business trip and don’t have time to relax Singapore Botanic Gardens can probably wait until your next visit.  I would recommend a trip to Singapore Botanic Gardens for anyone who happens to find themselves in Singapore with a few spare hours.

View the Complete Singapore Photo Set at tourismPICS.com