Getting to Koh Samui

If you’re at all familiar with the geography of Thailand you may already know that often times it’s not as simple as simply booking a flight, landing, getting to the hotel and lounging on the beach.  Some of Thailand’s islands have only a few thousand if any inhabitants while others are almost completely developed.

Koh Samui happens to be one of the 3 largest islands along with the Phuket and Koh Chang.  While Koh Chang doesn’t have an airport and requires a ferry from the mainland’s Trat airport Phuket and Koh Samui both have an airport but with the airport at Koh Samui there is a catch.

The airport on Koh Samui was built by Bangkok Airways which for a long time was the sole airline occupying the airport.  Times have changed and now Thai Airways has a couple flights in and out of Samui along with a couple tiny airlines but if you plan to head to Samui you’re probably going to be flying Bangkok Airways.

This is not to say Bangkok Airways, “Asia’s Boutique Airline” is not good but it does limit your options especially if you pay attention to airfare.  Due to the obvious lack of competition Bangkok Airways can charge a few extra baht for each flight.  I was flying from Singapore so I paid what I thought was a lot more than a typical domestic flight in Thailand.

Bangkok Airways Plane Flying over Big Buddha Pier on Koh Samui

Getting Situated on Koh Samui

I picked a bungalow which was the very cheapest accommodations for Koh Samui on Hotels.com which was located in Mae Nam Beach which was supposed to be one of the quieter areas on Koh Samui.  Upon arrival I went to the one and only counter for taxi and was quoted 600 baht ($18 USD) for a ride to my bungalow.

I pretty much knew I was paying way too much for a cab or one of those pickup truck style cabs with 2 rows of seats in the back but I wasn’t in the mood for inconveniencing myself so I just plunked down the 600 baht and in 15 minutes I was at my hotel.  If you arrive to Samui Airport and don’t want to spend 600 baht to get to your bungalow make sure you plan your transport in advance.

Places to Stay on Koh Samui Thailand, Bungalow – Coming Soon

Koh Samui Island

My Koh Samui experience was quite different than what I expected.  I was under the impression that Koh Samui was a quiet and peaceful island which wasn’t overdeveloped like Phuket, Hawaii or other popular tourist islands but Samui was just that.  I specifically avoided Koh Phangan because I thought it was going to be covered with drunk teenagers attending full moon parties and overcrowded roads but that is exactly what Koh Samui was like.

I rented a Honda Scooter (moped?) from the Bungalow for 250 baht ($7.50 USD) which was overpaying and began to drive around Koh Samui.  When I say drive around It’s not a figure of speech.  The main road of Koh Samui is a 2-way 2-4 lane road that goes in a circle around the entire island.  My hotel manager said it takes from 45-60 minutes to go around the whole island.

There are many interior roads, the ones I drove on were all paved and in very good condition (note the exception pictured below) as opposed to what I read which said they were all bad.  The huge problem with getting around via scooter on Koh Samui is the absolutely ridiculous sign overload.  I’m not exaggerating when I say after you see the sign of the place you are trying to get to, you will see 20-50 signs before your turn.

In addition to being really annoying this showed some serious overdevelopment of Koh Samui’s coast and beaches.  Most of the beaches were either crowded tourist beaches like the two most popular Chaweng and Lamai or smaller beaches lined with resorts.

Typical Beach Scene Surrounding Koh Samui

Things to do on Koh Samui

If you don’t plan on driving around in circles like I did you should probably plan your things-to-do itinerary before you set out.  Even if you plan it out, make sure you have a general idea of how far you need to go so you don’t get confused by the sign overload.  At the very least, if you are driving yourself, drive very slowly on the far side of the road to be able to see where you want to go.

Beach Bum it

If being on the beach and in the water is your thing there is no shortage of it on Koh Samui.  You will no doubt be sharing it with hundreds of Western tourists but there is an abundance of water activities from surfing to snorkeling to jet skiing.  While 90% of anyone visiting a tropical island wants to take advantage of this, alternative activities are important for if you get bored or get that likely bad sunburn.

Grandmother and Grandfather Rock

Tourist attraction rock formations which resemble human genitalia are not entirely unusual (See Halong Bay, Vietnam) but Koh Samui has its own version.  I didn’t get a chance to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock mostly because I was caught up in the turbulent traffic swirl and missed the sign.  I didn’t get a chance to take my own photos but I got the idea from other people’s photos.  If you want to see Grandmother and Grandfather rock you’re in luck because it’s very close to Lamai Beach one of Koh Samui’s 2 most popular beach and areas.

Grandfather & Grandmother Rocks

“Templing”

Not that Koh Samui is the best place in Thailand to visit Buddhist temples and shrines but there are a fair share.  The most popular temple to visit in Koh Samui is the Big Buddha, located very close to Big Buddha Pier which is the primary embarkation point for Koh Phangan and other nearby islands.  There are various small shrines and temples on the island which I didn’t get a chance to visit.  Another rather large temple which I happened to visit was Wat Nuan Naram which you can more on the following link.

Thai Island Temple Photos on tourismPICS.com.

Hiking & Trekking

I had this 1000+ meter peak behind the Bungalow that was beckoning me.  My plan was to hike it so I went to 7-Eleven and bought some Man Vs. Wild survival gear like a cigarette lighter, flashlight, small pocket knife as well as a fresh phone card for in case I got lost.

Little did I know the hills in Koh Samui are no joke.  My Man vs Wild survivor kit was sorely lacking mosquito repellent and in the first 30 seconds I had to stop after getting my leg sliced up by some cactus like plants, I had about 500 mosquitoes buzzing around the fresh meat.  Needless to say I wimped out and saved the hiking for another day.

There are many mountains on Koh Samui and many opportunities to hike them on foot, mountain bikes, ATVs and of course elephant back.  None of these activities are going to be something you will do on your own so if you are interested by hiking and trekking make sure you call one of the many groups and make plans.

Eat, Drink & Party

It is Koh Samui’s close neighbor island Koh Phangan is world renowned for its Full Moon Parties but there is no shortage of partying on Koh Samui.  Aside from the huge night club Green Mango in Chaweng which could be in any urban city center to there is a ton of night life venues mainly concentrated in Chaweng and Lamai beach areas but there are also smaller, low key spots throughout the island.

Party at Green Mango Night Club in Koh Samui

Leaving Koh Samui

I had a 6pm flight from Koh Samui back to Bangkok.  With check-out time being at 12pm it meant I had a few hours to kill.  I planned to write for this blog so I wanted an internet connection and most importantly air conditioning.  I was worried about getting stuck at the small Samui Airport for 6 hours but rather than lugging my big bag around I decided to bite the bullet and wait at the airport.

What I didn’t know was Samui’s airport had a very nice boutique-like row of shops and restaurants.  There was everything from a sports bar, to a professional massage studio to ice cream shops, coffee shops and eateries.

All were air conditioned and the coffee shop even had a free wireless internet connection with any purchase.  Needless to say I got some work done and consumed some delicious extra calories before I boarded my Bangkok Airways flight back to Bangkok.  If you have some extra time on Koh Samui I would recommend going to the airport early what you’re going to find there is likely better than anything else on the island!

Bangkok Airways Koh Samui Airport Shops & Restaurants

Overall Impression

I still have nightmares of all the signs in Koh Samui.  It bugged me to the end and it made getting around way more difficult than it should have been.  While I thought there were many beautiful sights on Koh Samui it wasn’t what I envision when I think of a tropical Island.  Of course it still is Thailand so it is still covered in nice, laid back people.

I had just came from Singapore so it was really easy for me to appreciate the Thailand cost of living as well although some things were priced for the tourist.  While I liked some parts about Koh Samui and would consider going back before I left, I probably would bypass Koh Samui next time and use it for Bangkok Airway’s “boutique” airport after visiting its less developed neighbor, Koh Phangan.

View the Complete Koh Samui Photo Archive at tourismPICS.com

Places to Visit from Bangkok, Thailand – Koh Phangan

Singapore’s East Coast Park

One of the first things anyone who goes to Singapore will notice is East Coast Park simply because every form of transport leaving the airport drives by it on the way to the city.  It seemed very peaceful as you could see the aqua blue water and white sand beaches with a nearby canopy of tall trees.

East Coast Park was on my to do list as soon as I saw it but I purposely decided to wait until early the next week because I had a premonition of big weekend crowds.  I went on a Monday afternoon and the crowds were pretty tame.  My plans were to check out the beaches and go for a bicycle ride.

My primary objective was to get a good physical workout with a nice bike ride but I took some time to take some pictures and check out Singapore’s coast.  I inspected some of the many beaches in East Coast park and they ranged from small to medium sized white sand beaches to artificial jetty-like structures which showed that all the beaches were probably man made.

Cement on the Left - Beach on the Right - Singapore City in Background

Bicycle  Rental

I stupidly went to the first bike rental shop I saw which was right next to the eatery complex complete with McDonalds, Burger King a couple Chinese restaurants and more.  Without thinking I plucked down 10 Singapore dollars ($7 USD) and my ID (I used my California’s driver’s license) to get my bike.

Their “best bike” was a hybrid of some kind.  In the first 10 seconds I tried to ride it became evident that there was not a chance in hell I would make it more than a mile in this bike.  I’m used to nice bikes, not Lance Armstrong quality road bikes, but bikes that can ‘get on it.’  As I was riding down the bike path around 100 meters towards Changi Airport I saw another bike shop.

I went to the other bike shop and asked them what their best bike was.  They showed me a few nice hybrid bikes, road bikes and mountain bikes.  The higher end bikes cost a bit more, I chose a Cannondale hybrid which cost 20 Singapore dollars ($14.30 USD) but it was well worth it.  I immediately returned the crap bike to the first bike shop, without asking for a refund and was on my way.

Beachfront Bicycle Shop with Crappy Bikes

Bicycle Ride

Bike Path with Marked Pedestiran Crossing

The bike path was very nice and wide, free from potholes with more than enough signs to tell you everything you want to know.  There were red and white pedestrian crossings throughout as well.

This was my first time at East Coast park so I had no idea how far the bicycle path went but the plan was to go all the way to the airport.  I started riding and stopped a few times but ride as far as the path went.   East Coast Park actually ends in a few kilometers from the bike shop but there are numerous “connector” parks and other parks connected.  Yet again, a Singapore dot gov website details all the parks and connections.

I ended up riding all the way past Changi (Singapore International) airport to land’s end where there was a culdesac (pictured below).  Luckily for me or anyone who decides to go on this bike ride there are 3 or 4 little areas with shops and/or restaurants for refreshments and most importantly bottles of cold drinking water.

Interestingly, I noticed quite a few people which looked to be Malay from their head scars camping throughout the parks towards the end of the bike path.  I got some refreshments at the end of the path found an empty park bench and drank some fruit juice before I readied myself for the ride back.

End of the Road Land's End: Pasir Ris park

Overall Impression

On the way back the time was nearing 4pm and I could tell as the park was getting more crowded.  More bicyclists, rollerbladers and joggers were crowding the park which gave me the impression that it would be pretty crowded on the weekends.  Bicycling as far as I could figure out you could go from East Coast Park I could see dozens of empty small beaches.

East Coast Park is about as natural as you’re going to get on Singapore and anyone who wants to cool off in the calm aqua waters, relax on the beach, get physically active with bicycling, rollerblading, jogging, snorkeling East Park is worth a trip.  There is even a golf course and yes, Singapore’s First Cable Ski Park, and surely some surprises for a first time visitor.  I would recommend anyone who finds themselves in Singapore for an extended period of time, get a tube of sunblock, your favorite book and head to East Coast Park for a peaceful ocean breeze and a variety of physical activity if you choose to be active.

Getting to Singapore Botanic Gardens

I saw Singapore Botanic Gardens in one of the Singapore tourist maps so I decided to check it out.  It is open every day from 5am until midnight and the admission is free with the exception of the National Orchid Garden within the park that charges 5 Singapore dollars ($3.57 USD).

I took a taxi to Singapore Botanic Gardens as there is currently no nearby MRT station.  There is an MRT station being built nearby which should be done some time in 2010.  You can get specific directions and information about Singapore Botanic Gardens on the official dot sg website like most of Singapore’s attractions have.

There are two main entrances to Singapore Botanic Gardens.  You can see the view from one of the entrances below (I apologize for not knowing the name).  Upon arrival and through the gate there was a square with some waterfalls, plants and of course a little cafe/restaurant.  I was very hungry at the time so I ordered some pasta and a salad which were both very good although overpriced a bit.  I remember the salad being especially delicious.  After I satisfied my hunger it was time to explore.

Entrance to Singapore Botanic Gardens, Restaurant & Food

Singapore Botanic Gardens

I thought I was going to a rose garden but it turned out Singapore Botanic Gardens is simply a large park.  Symphony Lake (photo at top of post) was one of the first things to see after eating at the cafe.  There was a small amphitheater on the lake as well as grassy hills with school classes on field trips.

Throughout Singapore Botanic Gardens there are little placards with information next to all the various plants, flowers and trees.  There was a large section under construction when I was there but I still had a chance to check out the National Orchid Garden.  After paying the 5 Singapore dollar admission there are numerous paths with various plants, waterfalls and art.

I spent a little over an hour in Singapore Botanic Gardens so I can hardly do it justice.  It would take a few hours to thoroughly explore the whole park so if you find yourself in Singapore and want to explore and/or relax, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a place than can occupy quite a bit of your time.

There are a few bathrooms throughout were really nice along with vending machines with cold refreshments.  PLEASE NOTE:  Always carry 1 Singapore dollar coins with you because very few vending machines in Singapore had working paper money slots and believe me, cold refreshments are a must have when you’re walking around directly on the equator.

Moss covered Planter in the National Orchid Garden

The Cool House

The Cool House was one of many things to see in Singapore Botanic Gardens but I single it out because it was so ‘cool’ at the time.  Not unlike the rest of my trip to Singapore as I was walking around packing 10 pounds of camera equipment I got extremely hot and sweaty.  I don’t know if it was me, all the plants, the hills or being directly on the equator, but it felt like I was deep in the Amazon rain forest jungle.

Out of nowhere I saw a sign for the Cool House.  I didn’t know if it was a cafe or some sort of exhibit and I soon found it was the latter.  The Cool House was a small, climate controlled greenhouse with a cool weather ecosystem.  It was only about 20 meters long but the cool misty controlled environment felt so nice that I just stayed in there for about 16 minutes.  Inside the Cool House was an assortment of plants as well as a running stream and waterfall.

Entrance to the Refreshing 'Cool House'

Overall Impression

Singapore Botanic Gardens is much more than what it sounds like.  Similar to Central Park in New York or Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, Singapore Botanic Gardens is a rather large city park with a multitude of things to do whether it is sitting down and relaxing, looking at flowers and plant life or playing a game of Frisbee with friends.

Singapore Botanic Gardens also has a lot of things to take pictures of for you photography lovers out there.  If you’re in Singapore on a rushed business trip and don’t have time to relax Singapore Botanic Gardens can probably wait until your next visit.  I would recommend a trip to Singapore Botanic Gardens for anyone who happens to find themselves in Singapore with a few spare hours.

View the Complete Singapore Photo Set at tourismPICS.com

Singapore’s Accommodations

I’m sure there is a way to classify hotels as high-end, mid-range and budget but it is a little different in Singapore.  It seemed to me that Singapore is sorely lacking mid-range hotels.  Searching for hotels on Hotels.com I could find a bunch of very affordable hostels and more than enough high end hotels but no many mid-range priced $40-80 USD hotels.

I was seriously considering Novotel which has a perfect location and all the luxury amenities for around $200 USD per night when I thought about the price difference.  The Fragrance Hotel prices were around $40 per night which I figured to be 5 nights for the price of 1 when compared to Novotel.  I decided that saving major cash would be a better choice so I booked a room at Fragrance Hotel Pearl off Geylang Road.

Somewhere along Geylang Road, Singapore

Typical "Point at what you Want" hawker stall on Geylang Road

Fragrance Hotel Pearl

First off, there are numerous ‘Fragrance Hotels.’  They are mostly centered in Singapore’s red light district off Geylang Road.  “Red Light District” may have negative connotations to some but to me it also usually means lively and cheap.

I was concerned about the location but Fragrance Hotel Pearl actually had a great location.  It was a 10 minute walk to the Kallang MRT station which was 3 stops from City Hall, and 5 stops to either Little India or Chinatown.  Geylang road was renowned for its street food and it took me about 10 minutes before I was getting some delicious Malay/Indian/Chinese Singaporean food which was located on every corner of Geylang Road.

If you’re not staying near Geylang road it is certainly one of Singapore’s tourist attractions in itself as to me it felt like Bangkok more than Singapore, not because of the abundance of karaoke bars and ladies walking on the street but because it was a little dirty and rough, not clean and organized like most of Singapore.

The hotel room at Fragrance Hotel Pearl was just what you would expect for $40 a night.  There was a bed, a desk, a small wardrobe along with an attached bathroom which was the typical tropical style mixed toilet/shower.  Although there was a TV with cable there was no mini fridge, microwave or safe.  NOTE:  Wireless internet was available but at a price.  A 24 hour internet access card cost a whopping 18 Singapore Dollars ($12.87 USD) which I think is quite ridiculous even though I paid it.

Room in Fragrance Hotel Pearl, Singapore

Typical Tropical Style Shower/Toilet in Fragrance Hotel

Overall Impression

I will admit there were a couple times where I wished I had all the extra amenities of a Novatel but in hindsight if money is at all a concern, I’d rather have 5 nights at a fully comfortable although lacking hotel room than an overkill hotel room.  I would recommend staying in Singapore at Fragrance Hotel Pearl to anyone with the same attitude which I just mentioned.  If you spend more time out of the hotel room than inside, why spend 5x more for luxury accommodations?

Even though soliciting prostitution is illegal in public in Singapore there were ladies with umbrellas standing on the sidewalk across from Fragrance Hotel Pearl from 9am (earliest I woke up) until 4am (latest I went to bed).  It didn’t bother me, but if it is a concern to you, keep this in mind if you decide to choose a hotel anywhere near Geylang Road.  If this doesn’t bother you and want to spend $40USD per night staying in Singapore at a convenient location with great food, Fragrance Hotel Pearl is the place to stay in Singapore.

Common Sight along Geylang Road 24 hours a day

Perfect way to See Singapore

Upon arriving in Singapore I took the SMRT directly from my hotel off Geylang Road 4 stops to City Hall station from a friend’s recommendations.  From the City Hall MRT station I walked to Marina  Bay which is what I would consider THE spot in Singapore for any visitors to visit.

Marina Bay has many sights and things to do including everything from cheap food hawkers to a newly built high-end hotel and casino to Singapore’s spiky looking performing arts venue the Esplanade and of course its mascot, the Merlion.  Marina Bay goes on up Singapore River past Singapore’s classy night life and dining areas Boat Quay (pronounced “key”) and Clarke Quay.

The “30 minute tour” ticket was only $15 Singapore ($10.70USD) but I wanted to do the boat tour at dusk so I could get photos of Singapore in the light as well city light photos in the dark.  I didn’t take the Singapore river boat tour on my first day because I wanted to get the Singapore Zoo and night safari out of the way so I left.  In hindsight I wish I went on the boat tour on the first day.

River Boat and Ticket Office at Merlion

Boat from the Merlion

I came back 2 days later and bought a “30 minute tour” ticket from the ticket stand right next to the Merlion (pictured above).  The river boat was not very crowded on a weekday in between 6 and 7.  It took off and I sat in the very back to take some photos.  There was a pre-recorded voice which tells a brief history about everything passed during the boat tour.

The boat tour is actually a taxi which stops at 4-5 places along Singapore River.  The nightlife/dining areas Boat Quay and Clarke Quay were very close to the central business district.  Towards the end of the river boat tour I was able to see the Novotel Hotel which I was going to splurge to stay at and I realized that the location was very prime which also probably justified the price.

View from Boat

Overall Impression

Singapore River Boat tour, isn’t really a ‘tour’ it’s more like a taxi which give you a nice breezy lift from Marina Bay to anywhere along Singapore River. I consider the river boat tour is an immediate essential “thing to do” for anyone who visiting Singapore.  Just feeling the vibe of Singapore is worth the price of admission.  I was able to get some good photos with my Nikon D700 digital SLR and Nikkor 14-24mm F/2.8 which you can see below.

View More Photos from Singapore River Boat Tour on tourismPICS.com